This Pedal to Produce itinerary is the foodie holiday you need

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A cycling pilgrimage to Victoria’s High Country is a new way to consider Australia’s first ‘Gourmet Region’.

There’s a place along one of the bike paths between Beechworth and Milawa where we lose ourselves among a grove of river red gums, where the branches above interlace like the fingers of giants.

It’s autumn in Victoria’s High Country and we pause on our e-bikes to admire the picturesque path carpeted with copper-toned leaves, dancing in the breeze.

We were up at the first finger of light to launch into the unfolding day from our tiny home at Church Lane to explore the rolling hills and valleys of the state’s north-east.

We continue, e-bikes whirring, past cows and kangaroos grazing on apple-green pastures until we reconnect with the Pedal to Produce trail, which noodles past some of the state’s finest artisan makers and growers.

Milawa Mustards

cows in paddock
The cycling trail passes through a patchwork of pastures and vineyards. (Image: Tourism Australia/Brown Brothers)

Milawa Mustards is an artisan producer that’s one of a handful of businesses that came together to form Milawa Gourmet Region, the first of its kind in Australia, in 1994.

It’s inside the factory housed in an old butcher’s shop where we meet current owner Jim Mellor, who advances towards us wearing a hand-knitted beanie, grey tee, jeans and work boots. The uniform of country Victoria.

“Welcome to Milawa Mustards," says Jim, flashing an ear-to-ear grin, his lilting accent a remnant of his early years in West Yorkshire.

Jim Mellor cuts the mustard at Milawa Mustards
Current owner Jim Mellor cuts the mustard. (Image: Paddock 2 Pixel)

Jim grew up in a pub in the Humber region of England before serving in the British Army, opening a brewery in Faversham, Kent, and migrating to Australia with his wife Kirsty. The couple bought Milawa Mustards in 2010.

“Milawa Mustards is all about keeping the heritage of a cottage industry alive. The recipes we follow have been passed down for generations. I’m an artisan, so although I put my heart and soul into everything, I also make the kind of mustards that suit my own taste," says Jim, who describes his mustards as more “French than English in style".

the Milawa Mustards products
Milawa Mustards is one of the pioneering producers in the Milawa Gourmet Region. (Image: Paddock 2 Pixel)

Jim is justifiably proud of being an award-winning mustard maker and invites us to sample some of his wares, which include a best-selling balsamic mustard and a hot chilli mustard.

“All the products are handmade on the premises. We grow our own mustard seeds to ensure a consistent supply and source local ingredients such as artisanal vinegar and spices to help make the flavours sing," he says.

While Milawa, in the heart of Ned Kelly Country, was originally established as a place for gold miners to rest, the founding of the Brown Brothers winery in 1889 put the village on the map for gourmands.

These days, Milawa has further evolved to become a place known as much for its bounty of local produce as its sophisticated wining and dining scene.

cycling through the Milawa Rail Trail
Cycle along trails that thread through the landscape. (Image: Jonathan Tan)

Dining at Ava

Our self-guided Pedal to Produce itinerary also strings together some of the region’s most lauded restaurants. An eve at the atmospheric Ava is the perfect start to our culinary adventure. Although the main street of Milawa is very sleepy for a Friday night, the restaurant is packed with a mix of locals and food tourists.

Ava is run by chef Paul Szeligiewicz and his sister Monique, who share a passion for provenance and using the very best hyperlocal and seasonal ingredients.

Chef Paul Szeligiewicz ofAva
Chef Paul Szeligiewicz of Ava. (Image: Brittney Overton)

We get a taste of their farm-to-table approach with the locally sourced Rivalea pork belly with fennel, savoy cabbage and Milawa Miso Mustard washed down with a glass of Scion viognier.

“Hi. I’m Monique. Otherwise known as Mon from Wang [Wangaratta]," smiles Monique, endearing herself to us immediately. “What we want you to feel when dining at Ava is comfortable and relaxed. Although the cuisine is quite elevated, dining here still feels casual."

the signature dessert at Ava
Enjoy the signature dessert of smoked chocolate, macadamia and miso caramel at Ava. (Image: Brittney Overton)

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Henley’s Wine Bar & Kitchen

cycling to Henley’s Wine Bar & Kitchen
Factor in a stop at Henley’s Wine Bar & Kitchen on your pedal-powered tour. (Image: Karen Webb)

The Pedal to Produce pilgrimage also includes Henley’s Wine Bar & Kitchen, on the crossroads of Milawa in a historic building constructed from hand-hewn bricks in 1861.

The landmark building has at different times been a travel depot, hotel, courthouse and public hall. Instead of tying up our horses, we tether our e-bikes to a weathered post outside Henley’s, which also serves as a cellar door for Redbank Wines.

Milawa Cheese Company

washed-rind cheeses at Milawa Cheese Company
The washed-rind cheeses win medals and hearts. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The jam-packed itinerary also loops in Milawa Cheese Company, conceptualised in 1988 by David Brown and his late wife Annie, who tasted a soft blue cheese in Northern Italy they described as “life-changing".

The company is now run by their daughter Ceridwen, aka ‘Mama Cheese’, who moved to Milawa with her parents at the age of eight. “I had no pressure from my parents to go into the business. I put that pressure on myself," says Ceridwen, whose official title is CEO.

Ceridwen says her family used to stop in Milawa on their way to the snow and she remembers the moment her dad saw the derelict butter factory for the first time.

“Dad was looking for places to put a cheese factory and it was like there was a neon light in his brain saying ‘That one, that one, that one’," she says.

staff cutting cheese during the tasting at Milawa Cheese Company
The staff at Milawa Cheese Company will guide you through the range of artisan cheeses. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The aroma of ripe cheddar is heavy in the air as we sample eight different cheeses before filling our basket with a creamy brie, deliciously stinky washed-rind cheese and gooey Milawa Blue.

We also duck into the adjacent produce store in the old butter factory where we stock up on fresh-baked Milawa Bread pastries, smoked trout and Wood Park Wines.

Brown Brothers

the menu at Brown Brothers
The menu at Brown Brothers is driven by the seasons. (Image: Brown Brothers)

The Pedal to Produce trail also unfurls like a spool of thread towards Brown Brothers, which is backdropped by Mt Hotham, smudged blue on the distant horizon.

“I’m the third generation from my family working at the vineyard," says Jacob Trethowan, cellar door manager at the Brown Family Wine Group.

“Brown Brothers is known for innovation and for staying ahead of the curve in the rapidly evolving wine industry. But it’s also one of the major employers in the region," he says.

a close-up of dish at Brown Brothers Restaurant
The menu at Brown Brothers Restaurant sings of the seasons. (Image: Visit Victoria/Rob Blackburn)

Jacob tells us an engaging story about the birth of Brown Brothers and offers samples of King Valley standouts such as prosecco and shiraz. But wine tastings are not the only draw here.

We discover this while seated at a table adjacent to the winery restaurant to enjoy a light lunch of warm olives, garden greens and grilled flatbread with hummus while listening to live music. Seeing one of the chefs stroll down to the garden to snip a selection of fresh herbs and tuck them into his jacket only adds to the charm.

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Sam Miranda King Valley

These days, there are six unique wine regions in Victoria’s High Country, which is now known for everything from the production of prosecco in the King Valley to the so-called Muscat Mile.

cycling Victoria’s High Country
Bike trails crisscross the King Valley in Victoria’s High Country. (Image: Visit Victoria/Ben Savage)

Sam Miranda King Valley is one of the vineyards knitted together to form a patchwork along the Milawa Gourmet Ride, one of seven Pedal to Produce trails that crisscross the region.

Here, we are ushered to a sun-dappled spot in the courtyard, which is bordered by a grove of Manchurian pear trees ablaze in the afternoon light.

a relaxed wine tasting at Sam Miranda King Valley
Enjoy a relaxed wine tasting at Sam Miranda King Valley.

Today, Sam’s wife Rachel is working the cellar door and joins us at our table with a couple of glasses and bottles of wine for tasting. To give emphasis to what she’s about to say, Rachel pours a glass of Sam Miranda NV Prosecco and holds it up to the light.

“Our proseccos are dry, fruit-driven and a much lighter style than Champagne. You’ll notice the bead of bubbles are a pale straw colour and the aroma one of crisp green apples," says Rachel, who looks like she’s stepped off a Country Style shoot.

an al fresco lunch at Sam Miranda King Valley
Enjoy an al fresco lunch at Sam Miranda King Valley.

After talking us through the wines, which include a sparkling chardonnay pinot noir and pinot noir, we enjoy a charcuterie plate featuring a selection of Beechworth cured meats and vegetables grown just metres away in the kitchen garden.

Lancemore Milawa

hammocks facing vineyard views at Lancemore Milawa
Soak up endless vineyard vistas.

Lancemore Milawa has also had a hand in the making of Milawa. It’s the luxury boutique hotel every regional Australian town needs: offering exceptional food, wine and great service. Indeed, dining at Merlot at Lancemore while sipping on wines produced from Lindenderry Estate – the vineyard the eatery overlooks – is an experience worth savouring.

The Milawa Makers loop starts and finishes with great local food and wine. But there are many other treasures to discover along the 30-kilometre route. Such as stopping to admire the historic Oxley Flour Mill, its timbers protruding like broken ribs. Pausing to eat a new-season apple under the dappled shade of a grey-box gum by a roadside stall. And tracing the rough-hewn seam of Hurdle Creek all the way to the small-batch gin distillery named in its honour.

While we take the opportunity to pick up a lot of gourmet souvenirs along the way, the real riches are discovered when we allow time to soften and connect with our surrounds.

the accommodation at Lancemore Milawa
Bed down at Lancemore Milawa.

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Carla Grossetti
Carla Grossetti avoided accruing a HECS debt by accepting a cadetship with News Corp. at the age of 18. After completing her cadetship at The Cairns Post Carla moved south to accept a position at The Canberra Times before heading off on a jaunt around Canada, the US, Mexico and Central America. During her career as a journalist, Carla has successfully combined her two loves – of writing and travel – and has more than two decades experience switch-footing between digital and print media. Carla’s CV also includes stints at delicious., The Sydney Morning Herald, and The Australian, where she specialises in food and travel. Carla also based herself in the UK where she worked at Conde Nast Traveller, and The Sunday Times’ Travel section before accepting a fulltime role as part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK. Carla and has been freelancing for Australian Traveller for more than a decade, where she works as both a writer and a sub editor.
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The ultimate spring and summer guide to Melbourne

There’s nothing quite like Melbourne in the warmer months. Come spring, the city emerges from its cold-weather cocoon and brims with marquee events, vibrant seasonal menus, brilliant blooms and a fresh energy.

The centre of the city is where most of the magic happens. It’s a labyrinth of art-lined alleys and meandering laneways, filled with restaurants, cafes, rooftop bars, galleries, live music joints, theatres, boutiques, high-end hotels like The Westin Melbourne and much, much more. In spring and summer, especially, locals and travellers alike come to enjoy the balmy weather and celebratory spirit.

If you’re planning to be one of them, here are the best places for eating, drinking, exploring and staying.

Where to stay

The Westin Melbourne

couple inside their room at the westin melbourne
View the city from above in your suite.

Situated in the heart of the city on bustling Collins Street, The Westin Melbourne is a supremely convenient base. With the hotel as a base, explore the entire CBD – including Federation Square and Melbourne’s shopping, dining, theatre and sporting precincts – on foot.

Despite its central location, the hotel is something of an oasis. It has a serene ambience and elegantly understated design that provides respite at the end of a busy day. Think timeless interiors with warm timbers and neutral tones, and spacious rooms with signature Heavenly® beds and sumptuous linens. You’ll also indulge in impeccable service and amenities like fitness and wellness centres and an indoor pool. Selected rooms have sweeping city views.

Where to eat and drink

1. Allegro

Allegro is refined yet welcoming, pairing seasonal Australian produce and international flavours, finished with finesse. The à la carte, set and pre-theatre menus change seasonally. In spring and summer, expect a lively and creative line-up of dishes. You can also partake in a playful and limited-edition High Cheese offering that’s well worth trying if you’re a lover of blues and bries.

The restaurant happens to be located right inside The Westin Melbourne. It’s an ideal spot if you’re staying at the hotel and need somewhere to dine or drink before hitting the town.

2. Lobby Lounge

the westin melbourne lobby lounge
Step into the Lobby Lounge.

Whether you’re after a quick bite before exploring the city, a leisurely lunch or dinner, or a post-theatre nightcap, head to The Westin Melbourne’s elegant Lobby Lounge.

The menu features everything from moreish snacks, small bites and share plates to hearty all-day meals and desserts. The accompanying drinks list is a treasure trove of varietals, with a notable leaning towards Victorian drops and an excellent selection of spirits.

For a truly indulgent experience, book yourself in for the signature high tea. You’ll savour three tiers of beautifully crafted sweet and savoury treats, specialty tea and coffee, and the option for a sneaky glass of bubbly.

3. Other places to dine

diners at supernormal melbourne
There’s no shortage of tasty dining options, in and nearby The Westin Melbourne. (Credit: Visit Vic)

Dotted around the city are some of Melbourne’s most acclaimed dining destinations. Supernormal is a local institution. Feast on inventive Pan-Asian dishes made with fresh ingredients, paired with a Japanese whisky or sake from the extensive drinks list. At Gimlet, the surroundings are utterly romantic, the service impeccable and the food outstanding. Expect sustainably sourced meats, seafood and produce finished with European flavours and technique.

Apollo Inn – the sister venue to Gimlet and Supernormal – does punchy snacks, share plates and incredible drinks. Try the signature Picon Biere, a refined take on a shandy.

Dukes Coffee Roasters at Ross House is a great place to start your day, serving up organic and sustainable brews made with precision.

While you’re in the city, take a wander down Hosier and AC/DC Lanes. Beyond the famed street art along both, you’ll find a cluster of must-try eateries and bars, including MoVida, Pastuso, Bar Bambi and Tres a Cinco.

Things to do

1. Take a run through Melbourne’s green spaces

a bridge across yarra river
Run or walk along the Yarra River. (Credit: Visit Vic)

Melbourne’s outdoors look their very best in spring and summer. The parks and gardens come alive with colourful blooms, the trees in and around the CBD regain their verdant canopy, and the Yarra River sparkles in the sun.

A run or walk in nearby green spaces, like Carlton Gardens, Fitzroy Gardens and the Royal Botanic Gardens, lets you soak up the scenery. The Westin Melbourne also provides curated running routes through surrounding gardens and along the Yarra. Workout gear and Bala weights can be borrowed from the hotel if you forget to pack your own.

2. Browse the boutique galleries

two women looking at an exhibition in the national gallery of victoria
See the collections of NGV. (Credit: Visit Vic)

Independent art galleries are practically synonymous with Melbourne, and many of them are conveniently situated in the city centre. You can easily hop between Flinders Lane Gallery, Arc One Gallery, Outre Gallery, Caves Gallery, Gallery Funaki and D’Lan Contemporary, allowing you to experience the city’s vibrant art scene in a single day.

If you’ve got an afternoon to spare, venture over the Yarra to the National Gallery of Victoria. The iconic and historic institution houses both a vast permanent collection and an exciting roster of rotating exhibitions.

3. Catch some live music

live music at the cherry bar in melbourne
Dive into Melbourne’s live music scene. (Credit: Visit Vic)

Melbourne’s live music scene reignites when spring hits. In and around the CBD are several beloved live music venues that showcase everything from jazz to rock to electronic.

Visit intimate venues like Bird’s Basement, Wax Music Lounge and Cherry Bar, or larger ones, such as The Toff, Forum and Palais Theatre, for major acts. Plenty of bars, restaurants and clubs host regular gigs, too, including The Westin Melbourne’s Lobby Lounge. Every Saturday from 12-3pm, enjoy live strings alongside your lunch or afternoon tea.

4. Soak up the atmosphere at the MCG

three punters in big hats at the melbourne cricket ground
Book tickets for a big sports bash. (Credit: Visit Vic)

The Melbourne Cricket Ground welcomes its namesake sport in the warmer months. Watch One-Day Internationals, T20 Internationals, Big Bash League and Sheffield Shield matches throughout the season, or settle in for the multi-day Boxing Day Test.

Spring and summer are also when the MCG holds big events and concerts. Surrounded by the roar and energy of the venue’s legendary crowds, there are few places better than this to see a live gig.

5. Experience the magic of the Regent Theatre

the inside steps of melbourne's regent theatre
Soak in Regent Theatre’s architecture. (Credit: Visit Vic)

Standing proud for nearly 100 years, the Regent Theatre is a stunning venue: its grand exterior opens to a gorgeously ornate interior decked out with chandeliers, plush drapes and gilded details.

Stopping by to take in its architecture is memorable enough. But if you’ve got the time, book a ticket to one of the spectacular shows that take place inside. The venue hosts a diverse line-up of live music, musicals, opera, dance, theatre and comedy. In spring and summer, the program is at its most energetic, with events to suit all tastes.

Whatever draws you to Melbourne, The Westin Melbourne is at the centre of it all. Start preparing for an adventure at marriott.com.

Pedal to Produce is Victoria's new must-do foodie itinerary