12 emerging experiences in South Australia

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Journey with our writers as they take you into South Australia’s top 12 emerging travel experiences from our 100 Emerging Destinations and Experiences series.

1. Beneath the surface in Mount Gambier

Travelling with: Carla Grossetti

When the sun rises over the Kilsby Sinkhole in Mount Gambier on South Australia’s Limestone Coast, it honeys the ribs of the limestone cave and gilds the water as blue as steel. From above, it’s like an aquamarine jewel that deepens and darkens, depending on the sun glancing this way and that throughout the day. While this ancient geographical marvel has been used for recreational diving since the late 1960s, it’s now a core part of operations for the Kilsby family farm, which has been going strong for four generations.

Access to the site is by booking only, but you can take a tour of the ancient water-filled pool, snorkel or dive beneath its gleaming surface and sample, in situ, the Sinkhole Gin distilled from the aquifer that feeds this karst cavity.

diving underneath the Kilsby Sinkhole
The sun beams radiate to the depths of Kilsby Sinkhole. (Image: Adam Stern)

2. Adelaide’s emerging Inner West

Travelling with: Alexis Buxton-Collins

The fragrant Afghan soul food at Parwana has long drawn Adelaideans to Torrensville and it’s still full every night of the week, even after doubling the floor space. But a spate of recent openings in the neighbourhood has provided plenty of other reasons to head west. Watch the in-house roaster in action while you get your caffeine fix at ultra-hip Elementary Coffee, then wander down to Lenny’s Records where the genial owner specialises in left-of-centre rock, folk and psychedelic music.

a soul food at Parwana Afghan Kitchen
Savour flavourful goodness at Parwana Afghan Kitchen. (Image: Josie Withers)

Head further west to Brookie P (aka Brooklyn Park), where the latest ventures from female-fronted hospitality group Sonic Yoni are about to open in the former council chambers; Yellow Matter is an inclusive brewery prioritising accessibility and So Long, Marianne is a menu-less wine bar with degustations that change daily to minimise waste.

the inside venue of Parwana Afghan Kitchen
A mix of blues occupies the interior of Parwana Afghan Kitchen. (Image: Josie Withers)

3. Trailblazing in the Southern Flinders Ranges

Travelling with: Taylah Darnell

Spanning from the ocean in Port Pirie to the red-dirt plains of Peterborough, South Australia’s Southern Flinders Ranges are bursting at the seams with prospect. New mountain-biking trails will open later this year in Mount Remarkable National Park, designed by TrailScapes using machinery with minimal environmental impact and in consultation with the Nukunu Wapma Thura (Aboriginal Corporation).

guests during a yoga session in the Southern Flinders Ranges
Bask in peace at your wellness retreat.

The project has been years in the making and includes the 42-kilometre Epic Mountain Bike Trail. Experience Melrose is taking advantage of the expansion, combining mountain biking with wellness retreats. Stay and play at Jacka Brothers Brewery in Melrose, a redeveloped heritage-listed site turned brewhouse that doubles as cosy accommodation, offering panoramic views of the Southern Flinders Ranges.

a car driving along the scenic Southern Flinders Ranges
Drive along the scenic mountain ranges. (Image: Anthony Anderson/@DroneDynamicsSA)

4. The rise and rise of Kangaroo Island

Travelling with: Imogen Eveson

Baillie Lodges has announced that Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island’s wild west coast will reopen in December and anticipations are running high for the re-emergence of the luxury lodge that was razed to the ground in the Black Summer bushfires.

huge boulders on Kangaroo Island
Immerse yourself in the coastal wilderness. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

To stay at Southern Ocean Lodge is to immerse yourself in the South Australian island itself – whether through the food on your plate or the coastal wilderness that surrounds you – and its reopening will be a symbolic line in the sand for the community and its regeneration over the past few years. And with the recent launches of other accommodation options that connect guests to the essence of the island, such as Wander on Kangaroo Island and Island Burrow, KI’s tourism game is going from strength to strength.

an aerial view of the scenic accommodation on Kangaroo Island
Soak up scenic views on Kangaroo Island. (Image: Wander/Remy Brand Creative)

5. A backstage pass to the best bits of the Barossa

Travelling with: Imogen Eveson

Having reopened in September last year following a ‘glamover’ courtesy of new owners Baillie Lodges, Barossa Valley stalwart The Louise is looking better than ever and offering guests a backstage pass to the best bits of the South Australian region. And you don’t have to stray far to find them.

a desk at Stonewell Suite, Barossa
The luxe new Stonewell Suite at The Louise is the ideal luxury escape. (Image: Stepney Studio)

Cross the road for a drink at Tscharke Wines, where Damien Tscharke is turning Barossa traditions on their head. With his single-minded dedication to organic winemaking and innovative development of grape varietals, Tscharke eschews the traditional cellar door experience in favour of a new wine bar concept, The Protagonist.

One of the boons of staying at The Louise – aside from waking in elegant suites to a blanket of vines all around and destination dining at Appellation – is ready access to in-the-know spots like this, with a passionate team enmeshed in the local community on hand to connect guests to personalised experiences.

a bed beside a window at Stonewell Suite
The modern rooms are sleek and cosy with pops of colour. (Image: Stepney Studio)

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6. See a 10,000-year-old tradition evolving in Goolwa

Travelling with: Alexis Buxton-Collins

The middens dotting the sandhills around the mouth of the Murray River attest to the importance of kuti (pipis) to the Ngarrindjeri people, who have harvested and eaten these plump bivalves for countless generations. And after dismissing them as bait for years, chefs of fine diners are finally cottoning on to their potential. In a small shed flanked by colossal dunes on South Australia’s Fleurieu Peninsula, battered by the winds coming off the Southern Ocean, Kuti Shack heroes the tasty molluscs harvested by Ngarrindjeri-owned Kuti Co by serving them in laksas and with decadently rich chilli jam, lemongrass and crusty sourdough.

a table top view of the meals at Kuti Shack
Indulge in a seafood feast at the Kuti Shack. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission/Fleurieu Peninsula Tourism)

Look further down the menu and you’ll find all the elements for a sustainable seafood feast with a strong emphasis on local species: think grilled wild-caught Coorong mullet, buttermilk fried mulloway wings and crispy carp belly goujons.

a dining setup overlooking the sea at Kuti Shack
Dine while overlooking the vast seascape. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission/Fleurieu Peninsula Tourism)

7. Wine meets sustainability in South Australia

Travelling with: Kate Symons

Google ‘Jock Harvey’ and ‘McLaren Vale’ and a defining quality of this community-minded local becomes quickly apparent. Jock wears many hats. As uncovered by the first three Google entries – McLaren Vale Distillery, Naked Wines and Chalk Hill Viticulture – he is a drinks guy. Scroll down a little further and there is another, perhaps even more telling, entry: Biodiversity McLaren Vale.

Co-founded by Jock in 2009, Biodiversity McLaren Vale (BMV) is a hands-on environmental stewardship initiative, run by volunteers and focused primarily on creek-line restoration. Monthly working bees attract scores of committed locals and planting partners include McLaren Vale wine brands Gemtree, Shingleback, Fox Creek, Bec Hardy and Pannell Enoteca.

a wine shack at Gemtree Wines
Drop by Gemtree Wines for a tasting. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

As South Australia’s first wine region – its wine-producing history dates to the 1830s – McLaren Vale is hardly emerging. Yet the renowned patch, positioned on the Fleurieu Peninsula, has reinvented itself of late and is now firmly established as one of the country’s most sustainable, not to mention incredible, wine regions.

According to Wine Australia, McLaren Vale is leading the way in organic practices, water management and climate-appropriate plantings, all key areas of the region’s own Sustainable Australia Winegrowing (SAW) Program. SAW ran from the early 2000s until 2019 at which point 72 per cent of McLaren Vale’s area under vine used the program to assess and improve practices. Thanks to its success, the program informed Sustainable Winegrowing Australia (SWA), which is now the single national program for those committed to sustainable wine.

Interior of Hither & Yon in McLaren Vale
Hither & Yon has cleverly set up shop in Willunga, one of the region’s cute-as-you-like villages. (Image: Josie Withers)

Crucial to the region’s success is the presence of like-minded wine folk. “Cooperation has become a cultural thing [in McLaren Vale] that people want to protect," says Jock.

Sustainable winemaking practices are becoming more and more important to the consumer. A new report released by SWA last year found 67 per cent of those surveyed want to purchase only sustainably made wine. It’s no free ride, though. Certifications and credentials can’t do much for an average wine, nor your average wine region. Average, McLaren Vale is not.

There are more than 80 cellar doors in the region, from quaint set-ups such as Samson Tall to established digs such as Wirra Wirra, and the show-stopping d’Arenberg Cube, arguably the most impressive wine tourism attraction in the country.

d'Arenberg Cube in McLaren Vale
See the show-stopping d’Arenberg Cube. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission/ d’Arenberg Cube)

The Chalk Hill Collective site, which includes Never Never Distilling Co., Cucina di Strada and some of the best views the region has to offer, is perhaps one of the prettiest spots in the country on which to sit back and sip. Hither & Yon, meanwhile, has cleverly set up shop in Willunga, one of the region’s cute-as-you-like villages. From here, grab a cruiser and set off on the eight-kilometre Shiraz Trail. On Saturdays, the township bustles with the Willunga Farmers Market, the state’s first and still one of the country’s best.

A grape’s throw away, you’ll find yourself facing pristine coastline, of which McLaren Vale has 30 kilometres. This maritime influence has its impact on the region’s wine, which heavily favours red Mediterranean varieties. Almost, that is, as much as it favours sustainable practices.

a bartender serving wine in front of guests at Never Never Distilling Co.
Experience unique wine tasting at Never Never Distilling Co. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

8. A festival for grown-ups in Adelaide

Travelling with: Alexis Buxton-Collins

Harvest Rock is a music festival for people who’ve outgrown dusty mosh pits, long lines at the bar and overflowing loos, drawing crowds in for its rock-star chefs as much as its actual rock stars.

The inaugural 2022 festival saw headliners such as Jack White, Crowded House and Khruangbin share top billing with arkhé’s Jake Kellie, who cooked up a feast of flame-grilled share plates paired with wines selected by renowned critic Nick Stock.

Elsewhere, punters could find natural winemakers hosting tastings and an entire bar devoted to non-alcoholic options. Add to that a central location in the leafy parklands and plenty of space to move around. It’s the perfect festival for people who appreciate a boogie and a good meal but want to wake up feeling good the next morning.

a crowded concert venue at Harvest Rock Music Festival
Dance at the Harvest Rock Music Festival.

9. Find new connections at a biodynamic McLaren Vale winery

Travelling with: Alexis Buxton-Collins

Clusters of juicy shiraz and tempranillo grapes poke out beneath extravagant garlands of leaves as I drive through the vineyard at Gemtree Wines to a restored wetland that has been planted with 50,000 trees and shrubs. For custodians Mike and Melissa Brown, this is a labour of love that began when they bought the South Australian property in 1998. For Ngarrindjeri Elder Mark Koolmatrie, the connection goes back far longer.

a woman walking around the vineyard
Make your way to a restored wetland at Gemtree Wines. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

“This is Kaurna Country, but the same values exist as in Ngarrindjeri Land, which is just over that hill," he tells our small group on the Wuldi Cultural Experience. “Our people have a concept called ngartji that means everyone has to look after something. It could be a wombat or an emu or a waterway, but if we all play our role, together we look after the planet."

High above us, several sleepy rescue koalas are perched in the treetops. But Mark is just as excited about what’s going on at ground level. “These old logs don’t seem like much, but they create a habitat for beetles and bugs and lizards. And plants that look like weeds might provide food and shelter for a whole range of critters. Everything here plays its role."

wine glasses on the table at Gemtree Wines
Sample the range of Gemtree Wines. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

It’s a holistic approach that resonates with the biodynamic winemaking philosophy at Gemtree Wines, where soil, fruit, minerals and even the planets interact in a sublime cosmic dance. As the shadows grow longer, Mark leads us to a shed where glasses are filled with crisp fiano, juicy GSM and peppery shiraz.

We tuck into platters of food inspired by native ingredients such as crunchy macadamia and desert lime pesto wrapped in warrigal leaves. “Life can get pretty busy and it’s easy to forget what’s important," Mark says as the conversation steadily grows louder. “But everything seems simpler when you can get back to nature in a place like this."

a photo of Mark Koolmatrie
Mark Koolmatrie to host Wuldi at the Gemtree Eco Trail. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

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10. Go remote in the Nuyts Archipelago

Travelling with: Taylah Darnell

For those seeking their next Australian adventure, a remote and paradisiacal collection of islands await you off the coast of South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula. Be one of only 60 people a year that explore Nuyts Archipelago on a three-night expedition with EP Cruises that accentuates the splendours of this protected marine area in the Great Australian Bight.

Nuyts Archipelago, South Australia
Only 60 people a year are lucky enough to visit Nuyts Archipelago.

With room for only 10 expeditioners and three crew members, you’ll get a remarkable insight into the islands, beaches, reefs and wildlife that call the Nuyts Archipelago home. The expedition includes all camping and safety gear, a double swag, bathroom and kitchen facilities and rare island experiences such as cliff jumping, swimming with dolphins, birdwatching and nocturnal tours.

Nuyts Archipelago, South Australia
Explore an untouched underwater world.

11. Wander the Wild South Coast Way

Travelling with: Alexis Buxton-Collins

Less than two hours from Adelaide, Deep Creek National Park is filled with deep gorges, dappled sclerophyll forests and windswept clifftops looking across the treacherous Backstairs Passage to the rugged coastline of Kangaroo Island.

Wild South Coast Way in Deep Creek National Park, South Australia
Admire the rugged coastline of Kangaroo Island along the way. (Image: Heidi Who Photos)

Add in hidden coves ringed by granite boulders covered in orange lichen and the tannin-stained waters of an infamously cold waterfall, and it’s easy to see why the South Australian park is so popular with locals.

Wild South Coast Way in Deep Creek National Park, South Australia
Dappled sclerophyll forests surround the trail. (Image: Heidi Who Photos)

But you can avoid the masses by tackling the five-day Wild South Coast Way hike that connects Cape Jervis and Victor Harbor via new walk-in campsites, where the only crowds you’re likely to see are mobs of roos grazing on the yacca-studded slopes at sunset.

Wild South Coast Way in Deep Creek National Park, South Australia
The Wild Coast Way is perfect for adventurers who love nature. (Image: Heidi Who Photos)

As a bonus, download the geo-located National Parks app and you’ll trigger stories from park rangers and Traditional Owners at certain locations along the hike.

12. Rising above the Murray River

Travelling with: Emily Murphy

Once-in-a-century floods tore through South Australia’s Murray River regions in summer 2022, devastating communities in its wake. Recovery efforts have been fierce, and there’s never been a better time to discover the Riverland and Murray River, Lakes and Coorong regions.

The Floathouse on the Murray River, South Australia
Stay at The Floathouse on the Murray River. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

The Murray River, Lakes and Coorong is ideal for floating downstream on a houseboat, with the sounds of birds as your playlist and the dramatic sunset as your backdrop. Whereas the Riverland has its own unique flow of giant cliffs, wetlands, mallee scrub and is the country’s largest wine-producing region.

Admire the milky way in all its glory at the Dark Sky Reserve. (Image: Mark Bondarenko)

Don’t miss stargazing at the River Murray International Dark Sky Reserve, Australia’s first Dark Sky Reserve, to see the Milky Way at its most magical.

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Farm fresh produce to a trail of lights: the ultimate guide to Mildura

    Rachel Lay Rachel Lay
    The charm of Mildura is hidden in plain sight along the Sturt Highway. The capital of Tropical North Victoria is in a league of its own.

    From the moment you arrive in Mildura, the warm air and palm trees invite you to slow down. While most Australians might drive right past it, Mildura is full of surprises. Here you’ll spend one day witnessing over 50,000 years of First Nations history in a UNESCO-listed National Park, and the next dining in a hatted restaurant after wandering through 12,500 fireflies as the outback sunset bursts to life above. From roadside fruit stalls and family-run wineries to houseboats and galleries, it’s time to explore Mildura.

    Feast Street, at the heart of Langtree Avenue in Mildura.
    Taste, wander and be surprised in Mildura.

    Taste Mildura’s produce

    It makes sense to start your trip by addressing the most important question: where to eat. In the beating heart of Australia’s food bowl, sample the local produce directly from the source. And then, of course, experience it through the menu of a hatted chef. Or sandwiched between pillowy slices of Nonna’s ciabatta.

    Rows of orchards and olive groves invite you to spend the day traipsing from farm to farm. Taste olives propagated from Calabrian trees brought over in the 40s, oranges picked right from the tree and squeezed into juice and spoons full of honey. Bring the holiday back to your kitchen by stocking your pantry at roadside produce stalls, or calling into the ‘silver shed’ (Sunraysia’s gourmand Mecca).

    Thanks to the warm, balmy air and fertile soils, the wineries dotted along these hills produce award-winning local wines. Like Chalmers, a family-run, innovative winery dedicated to making their wines as sustainable as possible. And picturesque Trentham Estate offers views of the snaking Murray River as you sample their vintages.

    Venture beyond the gnarled shadows of olive groves and fragrant rows of blossoming fruit trees and you’ll find an otherworldly side to Mildura. With Discover Mildura as your guide, visit Murray River Salt’s Mars-like stacks. The naturally pink salt is formed from an ancient inland sea and evaporated entirely by the sun to create one of the region’s most iconic exports.

    Start your day with just-squeezed sunshine.

    Hatted dining & Italian history

    Mildura is home to a proud community of Calabrians and Sicilians. This, paired with the exceptional local produce, means that you can find paninos on par with those in Italy. The Italian is a Paninoteca serving up made-to-order, hefty, authentic Sicilian paninos. Nonna Rosa’s pork meatballs, slowly cooked in tomato ragu and served in a crusty, fluffy roll topped with gratings of Grana Padano cheese and salsa verde, will call you back to Mildura for the rest of your days.

    To find hatted dining in Mildura, simply follow the staircase down into the basement of the historic Mildura Grand Hotel to find Stefano’s. Following the muscle memory and instinct of his Italian roots, he delivers on the principle of ‘cucina povera’. That is, the Italian cooking ideology that turns simple, local ingredients into magic.

    Things to do in Mildura include dining at the acclaimed Stefano’s, where simple local ingredients are transformed into Italian culinary magic beneath the historic Grand Hotel.
    Bite into Mildura’s Italian heritage.

    Discover a thriving culture scene

    The city is alive with culture. Whether it’s painted on the town’s walls, told in ancient yarns, or waiting for you in a gallery.

    The Mildura Arts Centre was Australia’s first regional art gallery. Behind the walls of Rio Vista Historic House, you’ll find a lineup of ever-changing exhibitions. The gallery’s wall space pays tribute to the art and songlines of local First Nations People, the region’s awe-inspiring landscapes and more. Outside, on the gallery’s lawn, find 12 contemporary sculptures in the Sculpture Park.

    Mildura’s streetscapes are a punch of colour. Swirling strokes of paint blend the winding artery of the Murray River, red dirt and local characters into a story you can see with your own eyes, thanks to the Mildura City Heart’s Mural Art Project. Pick up a copy of the Murals of Mildura guide from the Visitor Information Centre.

    Follow the border of NSW and Victoria on a map and you’ll see it hugs the curves of a tiny island on the Murray. That’s Lock Island, where, as the sun and moon trade places, the island comes alive as darkness falls. The island is dotted with 12,500 firefly lights that lead you on a meandering path through the outback sunset. The installation is known as Trail of Lights and was created by the same visionary who dreamt up Field of Light at Uluṟu, Bruce Munro.

    Things to do in Mildura include exploring its rich cultural scene. From vibrant street art and ancient stories to exhibitions at the Mildura Arts Centre, Australia’s first regional gallery.
    Find culture around every corner.

    Wonder at ancient landscapes

    The landscapes of Mildura feel almost transcendental. The skyline bursts to life with reds, pinks, and deep, sparkly night skies.

    The nature will leave you in awe. See hues of pink water changing with the weather at Pink Lakes inside Victoria’s largest national park, Murray Sunset National Oark. Cast a line into Ouyen Lake. Watch the sunset against 70-metre tall red cliffs that reflect the setting sun. Or get the heart racing and sandboard down the Perry Sandhills dunes, formed 40,000 years ago at the end of an ice age.

    Just don’t leave without following the twists and turns of the Murray. Stroll or ride along the Shared River Front Path, or jump onboard a boat for a scenic ride.

    Your itinerary will be incomplete without a visit to UNESCO World Heritage-listed Mungo National Park. Head out with an Indigenous ranger to witness ancient campsites and footprints, before standing in awe of ancient civilisation near the discovery site of Mungo Man—Australia’s oldest human skeleton at 42,000 years old.

    Mungo National Park at night is a vast, silent landscape where ancient dunes glow under moonlight and stars blanket the sky in breathtaking clarity.
    Walk in the footsteps of ancient civilisation.

    Meet your home away from home

    On equal par with planning your meals and adventures, is finding the perfect place to relax at the end of each day.

    Sleep inside a Palm Springs postcard at Kar-Rama. A sleek boutique hotel complete with a butterfly shaped, sun-soaked pool. Here you’re staying right in the heart of Mildura but you’ll feel worlds away. Or if you really wish to connect with nature, a night glamping under the stars at Outback Almonds will have you spellbound.

    When in Mildura it’s only right to stay on one of the Murray River’s iconic houseboats. Wake up each day to the calm waters of the Murray lapping outside your window. Enjoy days full of river swims, fishing and exploring. All boats are solar-powered and can be self-skippered or moored along the river.

    A solar-powered houseboat on the Murray River in Mildura.
    Stay and play on the Murray in a solar houseboat.

    Start planning the perfect getaway at mildura.com.

    12 emerging experiences in South Australia - Australian Traveller