Review: Mount Lofty House, South Australia

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Only 20 minutes from the city streets of Adelaide, there is room to roam and relax at Mount Lofty House.

In the years following European settlement, the Adelaide Hills were home to the sprawling summer estates of the city’s elite. The grandest of them all was Mount Lofty House, now a boutique 33-room hotel just 20 minutes from the Adelaide CBD.

Details

Mount Lofty House
1 Mawson Drive,
Crafers, SA

First impressions

Walking through the imposing three-metre-high front door, I’m offered a glass of local sparkling on arrival and it sets the tone for a stay full of pleasant surprises. Cookies and a handwritten welcome note await me in my room, along with an invitation to join a tour of the property at 5pm.

Mount Lofty’s grand exterior and expansive views

The rooms

The entry-level room is compact but well designed. High ceilings create a sense of space, and the bathroom is discreetly hidden behind the king-size four-poster bed. The louvred windows
are best left closed; they open onto a corridor, making this just about the only spot on the property without expansive views.

 

Fortunately, I can look out over the fertile Piccadilly Valley from the fine-dining restaurant inside and the terraced lawns below the house, both of which have seen more wedding parties than the staff can count. Lush farmland sparkles emerald green in the afternoon sun, and there’s a hint of Tuscany in the houses and vineyards set between chequerboard patches of trees. But this is a uniquely Australian scene and, just a short walk away, mobs of roos loll about while kookaburras swoop through the open eucalypt woodland forest of the upper Mount Lofty Botanic Gardens.

The Conservatory Suite

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The property

The freedom to wander the grounds and house is one of the great delights of a stay at Mount Lofty House, and soon I find myself in the open atrium of the library for the daily tour. Over mulled wine, I learn that the solid walls are made of sandstone from local quarries, and remain the only part of the original 1882 building after the devastating Ash Wednesday bushfires. Fortunately the rebuild and subsequent refurbishments have been tastefully done, and the newer elements blend well.

A refined offering at Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant

Despite its size, Mount Lofty House feels cosy and warm. There’s a sense of old-school grandeur, especially in the Arthur Waterhouse Lounge, where I spot a vacant seat by the black marble fireplace. But I’ve barely sunk into the brass-studded leather armchair before I’m up again – I’ve spotted a jar of marshmallows on the mantle and a set of roasting sticks nearby.
As night falls, a blanket of mist envelops the property and spindly tree-branch shadows create a distinctly Gothic atmosphere.

 

Thinking of the solid front door and carefully manicured grounds, it occurs to me that Mount Lofty House would make the perfect setting for a murder mystery. As I slowly turn my marshmallow over the glowing chunks of red gum, I conclude that there are worse ways to go.

Get cosy in the Arthur Waterhouse Lounge

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Verdict

A beautiful heritage property that provides a welcome escape from the city.

We rated

Feeling welcome to explore the house and property, and to make ourselves at home.

We’d change

With filtered spring water on tap, plastic bottles of water in the rooms seem unnecessary.

Notes

Classic rooms start at $449, but regular accommodation packages begin at $399 with a bottle of sparkling wine and a restaurant voucher included.

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Alexis Buxton-Collins
Alexis Buxton-Collins spent his twenties working as a music journalist and beer taster before somehow landing an even dreamier job as a freelance travel writer. Now he travels the world from his base in Adelaide and contributes to publications including Qantas, Escape, The Guardian and Lonely Planet. Alexis has never seen a hill he didn't want to climb and specialises in outdoor adventures (he won the 2022 ASTW award for best nature/wildlife story for a feature on Kangaroo Island). When he's not scouring South Australia for the newest wineries and hikes, he's looking for excuses to get back to spots like Karijini and Ningaloo.
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No time to hibernate: experience the best of winter in NSW

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Whales breaching, fires crackling and slow-cooked feasts that make the cold so cosy, one might wish it lasted longer. Winter is no time to stay at home in NSW.

    When the mercury drops, winter in NSW comes into its own. Beaches are quieter, the air is crisper and hearty food tastes even better when there’s ice on the windows.

    Winter here isn’t for hiding away. It’s for long walks, deep baths, deeper reds and the kind of fireside lounging that feels simultaneously indulgent and entirely deserved after a day of exploring. From whale-watching up north to moodily lit bushwalks and pastry pilgrimages, we’ve mapped out your new favourite season.

    a beach winter in nsw
    From coastal walks to tasty delights, winter in NSW is a time to get out and about.

    The Tweed

    In winter, the NSW north coast has a front-row seat to one of nature’s greatest migrations. From May to November, humpbacks cruise past the Tweed coast between Antarctica and the Great Barrier Reef. Spot them from the Cabarita Beach headland or get up closer with a boat cruise.

    Inland, find the Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre, which is home to a rotating cast of big-name exhibitions (including Monet).

    Later, grab a table at Bistro Livi, where the modern Spanish menu features whipped salt cod on toast and spanner crab with curry butter and spelt flatbread. Stick around to poke through the artist studios and indie boutiques of M|Arts Precinct.

    visitors at Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre
    Browse the art. (Image: Destination NSW)

    The next day, jump aboard the Indigenous Lunch Cruise with Tweed Escapes. You’ll cruise upriver listening to yarns from local Indigenous guides, stop at the Minjungbal Aboriginal Cultural Museum and tuck into lemon myrtle-crusted snapper.

    Next, drive out to Farm & Co to pull apart some juicy smoked lamb shoulder with green olive tapenade while gazing out over the macadamia fields and avocado groves of this working farm.

    End the day at Mantra on Salt Beach where you’ll enjoy beach access, a heated rock spa and a lagoon pool.

    dining room at Bistro Livi
    Taste modern Spanish at Bistro Livi.

    Blue Mountains

    The cold season is hands down the best time to visit the Blue Mountains. Temperatures are perfect – sunny enough for hikes, and crisp enough at night for snuggling up.

    For a trip that equally soothes and stirs, start with a meditative meander through the national park’s eucalypts and Australian wildflowers. Brave the steepest passenger railway in the world, Scenic Railway, then hop the Skyway aerial cable car for unrivalled Three Sisters views.

    Thaw out at the Japanese Bath House in South Bowenfels. Soak in steamy outdoor onsens filled with natural mineral water and mountain views, wander the rose and zen gardens, or sip hot drinks in the tea house.

    group leader at Blue Mountains Stargazing
    Rug up for Blue Mountains Stargazing. (Image: Destination NSW)

    Afterwards, head to Ates in Blackheath, where everything revolves around a 150-year-old ironbark-fuelled oven – like the wood-roasted duck with nectarines and Szechuan spice. Or visit Tempus Katoomba, which leans experimental and sustainable, serving up dishes like braised fennel with cumin, spiced yogurt and Aleppo pepper.

    Rug up and head into the night with Blue Mountains Stargazing. Sessions are guided by astrophysicists, helping you understand what you’re looking at as you look into deep space.

    Wrap it all up at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains – MGallery Collection. There’s a whiskey bar in the basement (and crackling fires that make a dram taste even better), indoor and outdoor pools and a day spa. Kids will love the mirror maze and ice rink, too.

    dishes laid out on table at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains
    End the day with delicious meals at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains. (Image: Destination NSW)

    Southern Highlands

    Good food and wine by the fire, experienced between sifting through second-hand treasures, is a winter vibe in Bowral.

    Start with a lap around Dirty Janes, an antique and vintage market. Recover from your shopping frenzy at Bendooley Book Barn, where floor-to-ceiling shelves and a roaring fire set the tone for an afternoon of red wine or hot coffee.

    When it’s time to eat, head to Hickory’s Restaurant & Bar, Peppers Craigieburn Bowral’s onsite restaurant. Try the crispy pork belly with Granny Smith crisps and apple gel, or ocean trout with wakame, lemon gel and pickled radish.

    couple looking through Dirty Janes in bowral
    Wander the antiques at Dirty Janes. (Image: Destination NSW)

    Another option, Onesta Cucina, does Italian with flair. For something more casual (with cocktails), Flour Bar swings between brunch and dinner, with an onsite bakery, over 400 wines and a hidden deli in the old bank vault.

    Later, clamber Mt Gibraltar, where trails wind through eucalypt forest to views over Bowral and Mittagong.

    Stay at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral, a century-old estate with open fires, elegant lounges and a nine-hole golf course.

    woman and her dog winter in nsw at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral
    Stay cosy at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral.

    Penrith

    Shake off winter inertia with an adrenaline boost out in Penrith. Kick things off with a kayak paddle on the Nepean River with Horizon Line, or head to Cables Wake Park, where cold-weather wetsuits take the edge off a wipeout.

    For something a bit more cruisy, opt for the Nepean Belle Paddlewheeler for slow-floating views and a hot cuppa.

    kayakers on the nepean river in penrith
    Head out on the Nepean River. (Image: Destination NSW)

    Refuel at Marcel Bar & Bistro, where reimagined European comfort food – like seafood risotto in bisque with little neck clams and Moreton Bay bugs – is king. Then check in at the Pullman Sydney Penrith, the area’s first international five-star hotel, to enjoy your well-earned rest.

    Pullman Penrith
    Set yourself up at Pullman Penrith.

    Start planning your NSW winter getaway at all.com.

    Hotel Review: Mount Lofty House, South Australia