Birdsville – 10 things to do besides the races

hero media
The Birdsville Races is an Australian outback bucket list item of mythical proportions, with around 7000 pilgrims covering thousands of kilometres to swarm on the remote Queensland town each September (since 1882). But Birdsville ain’t no one horse-race town. If you make it that far into the outback, you should do Birdsville thoroughly. So here are the 10 other must do’s. (words: Steve Madgwick)

1. The pub of many hats

'Hard yard' hats Birdsville Hotel Queensland photo: Steve Madgwick
‘Hard yard’ hats – Birdsville Hotel, outback Queensland (photo: Steve Madgwick).

Don’t just stop outside and snap the obligatory photo of one of the most photogenic outback pubs in Australia (circa 1884) – although you won’t be able to help yourself.

 

Step inside the Birdsville Hotel, reward yourself with a cold beverage and a bite to eat and marvel at the memorabilia. Start by counting the hats stuck to the ceiling of the public bar, each one representing someone who has done the “hard yards" in Birdsville (representing those who have spent more than a year here).

 

The food and accommodation are as good as anywhere you’ll get for miles and miles and miles around.

2. Try a camel pie

camel pie Birdsville Bakery photo Steve Madgwick
The ‘C’ means it’s a camel pie, Birdsville Bakery (photo: Steve Madgwick).

For the adventurous gastronomist, wander across the oval to Birdsville Bakery to sample the town’s culinary gift to the world: the camel pie.

 

Marked with a big ‘C’ on top of the crust, the $6 pastry has a curry zing and a lamb-like texture, the tender minced meat is not lumpy or humpy.

 

If camel’s a trek too far for you, try the kangaroo and claret pie or the berri quandong tart. It’s also extra special because Birdsville’s is one of only a handful of licensed bakeries in Australia.

Birdsville bakery outback Queensland
The (licensed) Birdsville Bakery, outback Queensland.

3. Play in the big red sand pit

Big Red dune Simpson Desert
The 40-metre high Big Red dune, gateway to the Simpson Desert (and 4WDers funpark). (Photo: Steve Madgwick).

Thirty-five kilometres west of the town, along an unsealed but passable road (as long as it’s dry), the trademark ochre dunes of the Simpson Desert begin.

 

Closest to Birdsville are Little Red and Big Red (40 metres high), which are the gateway to the Simpson traverse for hard-core 4WDers.

 

Please note that Big Red is on private land so show respect accordingly. At sunset and sunrise, you’ll get to see why Simpson is truly a redhead.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

4. Run and then bash

The Big Red Run seems like a crazy idea – a 250-kilometre foot race through the Simpson Desert – but funds raised from the event go towards great causes (including childhood diabetes), and all the athletes are consenting adults.

 

Ultra-marathoners from all around compete in the equivalent of 5 marathons in 6 days.

 

Directly after the run, the now annual Big Red Bash, a two-day concert featuring Australian rock royalty, is held on a makeshift stage constructed at the bottom of Big Red, creating a huge desert amphitheatre.

 

It’s fast becoming a pilgrimage that one day may challenge the races for sheer numbers making the trip.

5. The culture quest

While there are no major art spots in the area, there are some sites of significance for traditional custodians of the area, the Wangkangurru-Yarluyandi people.

 

A tour can be arrange to the Two Boys Dreaming site from the Wirrarri Information Centre (you can’t miss it).

 

While you’re at Wirrarri, browse the attached gallery for some amazing desert-scape photography and local art.

6. Swimming outback style

The pub is only one of the ways to cool down in town.

 

A nice stroll past the bakery will take you to Birdsville Billabong – great for a dip, a yabby hunt or for birdwatchers.

 

For a more adventurous style of outback swim, ask the locals if any of the surrounding (seasonal) waterholes are ripe for a dip. Make sure you get permission first, because many are on private land.

7. Waddi type of trees are they?

Head north out of town (14 kilometres towards Bedourie) and you will happen upon the fish-out-of-water rare desert waddi trees (seeds from these trees were discovered in Wills’ diary).

 

Some of the trees are said to a 1000 years old and their wood is abnormally hard.

 

The best vantage point to see the waddis is atop the mysteriously named Dingo Caves (note, there are no actual dingoes in the caves).

Weekly travel news, experiences
insider tips, offers, and more.

8. Day-tripping the easy way

There are plenty of legendary outback landmarks close (in a bush context) to Birdsville but just far enough out of town to make them too challenging for first-time 4WD-ers short of recovery and bush skills (or for those flying in).

 

Local company Deserts Edge Tours operates organised and bespoke excursions to places such as Cameron Corner (where Queensland, South Australia and New South Wales meet) or Poeppel Corner (where Queensland, South Australia and the Northern Territory meet) in its huge, dune-munching 4WD-bus hybrid.

 

For an aerial perspective of Channel Country, Central Eagle Aviation offer charters and joy flights such as 30-minutes over Big Red.

9. Burke and Wills legacy

Many towns around Australia’s centre have a Burke and Wills encounter story, as does Birdsville.

 

Evidence of the ludicrously intrepid pair’s connection to the area stands about three kilometres south of the centre where one of them is said to have slashed a tree, which still stands today.

 

It’s a subtle but worthy notch on your outback belt.

10. Fly the milk run

For those who fly (instead of drive) from Birdsville back to Brisbane you won’t get that slow-burn iconic outback trip moment, but you’ll have your own unique experience to talk about.

 

The Milk Run, the REX flight back to Brisbane, touches down at a handful of outback towns you’ve probably never been to before, including Windorah, Quilpie and Charleville.

 

The steward has to repeat the safety talk every time you take-off despite the fact the passengers are basically the same. Expect a complimentary beverage and biscuit on every leg too.

Want to see more stories from Australian Traveller in your Google search results?

  1. Click here to set Australian Traveller as a preferred source.
  2. Tick the box next to "Australian Traveller". That's it.
hero media

5 of the best Sunshine Coast day trips

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    City buzz, gourmet trails, surf breaks and art scenes are all at your fingertips.

    When it comes to planning a trip, picking a holiday destination is the easy part. The real dilemma is where to set yourself up for the night. Do you go coastal, city, or countryside? Somewhere remote and rugged, or right in the action? Luckily, the Sunshine Coast, and huge number of amazing Sunshine Coast day trips, have kindly made the choice for you.

    Ditch the hotel-hopping and suitcase-lugging. Instead, base yourself at Novotel Sunshine Coast or Mantra Mooloolaba, where big-city culture, vine-covered valleys, and theme parks are all within a two-hour drive.

    1. Sunshine Coast to Brisbane

    Drive time: 1 hour 20 minutes (105km)

    Shake off the sand from your sandals and swap the beach for the throb of the Queensland capital. Ease in gently with a bougainvillea-filled stroll through South Bank, iced latte in hand, before cooling off at Streets Beach lagoon – Brisbane’s answer to the coast (but without the waves).

    Once firmly in big-city mode, hit up the Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA), home to Australia’s largest collection of modern and contemporary artworks. Dive into the past at the Queensland Museum, where prehistoric fossils of Australian dinosaurs and megafauna collide with First Nations cultural collections and interactive science exhibits.

    All this learning got you hungry? Howard Smith Wharves calls. Here, riverside dining delivers breweries with meat-forward menus, Japanese fine dining and overwater bars. If you’ve got room for more, Fortitude Valley’s shopping boutiques await you and your wallet.

    woman walking around Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA)
    Wander the Gallery of Modern Art. (Image: TEQ)

    2. Sunshine Coast to the Scenic Rim

    Drive time: 2 hours 15 minutes (170km)

    Make your way inland to the Scenic Rim for the state’s best vineyards and age-old volcanic slopes. Start your day early (like, sparrow’s breakfast early) at O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat in Lamington National Park. Here, take a treetop walk through the canopy and hand-feed the wild birds who flock here.

    Next, it’s your turn to eat. Here, the food scene operates where locally sourced produce is an expectation, not an exception. Order a picnic basket crammed with regional wine and cheese to devour next to the creek at Canungra Valley Vineyards. Or perhaps a grazing platter of vegan and non-vegan cheeses at Witches Falls Winery.

    Feeling bold? Tackle the Twin Falls circuit in Springbrook National Park. Or keep the gourmet life going with a Scenic Rim Brewery tasting paddle, best enjoyed while taking in the rise of the Great Dividing Range.

    woman with cheese and wine at Witches Falls Winery
    Enjoy a cheese platter at Witches Falls Winery. (Image: TEQ)

    3. Sunshine Coast to the Gold Coast

    Drive time: 2 hours (180km)

    Surf, sand and sparkling skylines might be the Gold Coast’s MO, but there’s more to Surfers Paradise and beyond. Kick things off with a beachfront coffee at Burleigh Heads, then hike through Burleigh Head National Park to look over the ocean and whale sightings (dependent on the season, of course).

    Cool off in the calm waters of Tallebudgera Creek before chowing down on the famously buttery Moreton Bay bug rolls at Rick Shores. Travelling with the kids? Then you can’t miss Australia’s theme park capital, with Dreamworld’s big rides and Warner Bros. Movie World’s Hollywood treatment at hand to keep the family entertained.

    aerial view of Tallebudgera Creek
    Dive into Tallebudgera Creek. (Image: TEQ)

    4. Sunshine Coast to Tweed Heads

    Drive time: 2 hours 15 minutes (200km)

    Dare to cross enemy lines? Then welcome to New South Wales. Tweed Heads blends the laid-back attitude of the Northern Rivers with high-quality dining, experimental art, and farm-fresh indulgence – a combo worth the drive.

    Start strong with a long, lazy brunch at Tweed River House, then swing by Tropical Fruit World for exotic finds like red dragon fruit, handfuls of lychees and black sapote. Next, hit M|Arts Precinct – an art deco hub of micro galleries, artist workshops and one-off boutiques.

    Round off the day with sunset drinks at Husk Distillers among the glowing cane fields, and order one with their famous Ink Gin. You’ll thank us later.

    exterior of Husk Distillers
    Taste the famous Ink Gin at Husk Distillers. (Image: Destination NSW)

    5. Sunshine Coast Hinterland

    Drive time: 1 hour (70km)

    Strap on those hiking boots and make tracks inland, where volcanic peaks, misty rainforest and hinterland townships beckon. Ease in with the Glass House Mountains Lookout Walk, or, if you have energy to burn, tackle the Mount Ngungun Summit Walk for a 360-degree sight of the surrounding summits.

    Next: Montville. This township delivers European-style architecture and old-world appeal. Nearby, settle in at Flame Hill Vineyard, where a large pour of estate-grown wine comes with encompassing views of the countryside.

    Not ready to leave the hinterland villages just yet? Of course not. Meander past art galleries and indie shops at Maleny. Nab some fudge from Sweets on Maple for a sweet fix. Or go salty at Maleny Dairies with a farm tour and a chunky wedge of their deliciously creamy cheese.

    End the day among the eucalypts and rainforests of Kondalilla National Park. Here, the Kondalilla Falls Circuit winds down through trees humming with life to a rock pool beneath a waterfall – as if designed for soaking tired feet before heading back to the coast.

    view of Mount Ngungun on the scenic rim queensland
    Take on the Mount Ngungun Summit Walk (Image: TEQ)

    Start planning your Sunshine home base at all.com.

    10 things to do in Birdsville besides the races