Here’s how to do the outback on a budget

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Where else in the world can you feast on feral animals, fossick for opals and see horse, camel and yabby races, all on the one road trip?

Now is an especially exciting time to venture into the outback, with recent rainfall transforming the usually arid landscape into grassy plains, teeming with wildlife. And you don’t have to save up for a lifetime to do the trip of a lifetime.

How to get there on the cheap

Self-drive

Driving yourself through the outback not only gives you more freedom and flexibility to explore at your own pace, but it’s also the most affordable option, with the main expense being fuel. The more friends who come along for the road trip and chip in, the cheaper it is again.

 

But if you don’t have a reliable 4WD on hand, there are affordable rental operators such as Australian 4WD Rentals, which for example can provide a 4WD for up to 20 days from $100 a day, depending on the season.

 

Alternatively, there are many 2WD-friendly routes across the outback, such as the route from Halls Creek to Kununurra on the Great Northern Highway, from Alice Springs to Glen Helen on the Red Centre Way, and the drive from Brisbane to Longreach. See page 92 for more itinerary ideas.

By train

If you’re the kind of traveller who prefers to relax and let someone else do the driving while you view the scenery, there are many outback train lines to jump on board.

 

• COUNTRYLINK train services through western NSW are an economical option, passing through many outback towns such as Bourke, Broken Hill and Lightning Ridge. There are also special outback packages through remote regions, such as the seven-day Corner Country Eco Experience from $1997 twin-share.

 

• QUEENSLAND RAIL’s Spirit of the outback train service runs from Brisbane to Longreach – 1325km – twice weekly. For an extra $165, you can also pack your car onboard and drive the trip home instead.

 

• THE PICHI PICHI RAILWAY in SA’s Flinders Ranges provides regular heritage train journeys on the oldest remaining section of the old Ghan railway. It uses the historic Barwell Bull railcar and offers steam services during school holidays and long weekends using historic carriages, some dating from the 19th century. Adults can jump on board a return trip for $47, concession holders for $44, children for $16. Family passes available.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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By bus

Alternatively, various bus services tour the outback, with cheap deals to boot.

 

• AAT KINGS will take you all over Australia in an air-conditioned coach, and offers an array of guided tours including trips to the Top End from $1719, Best of the Kimberley from $4739 and the Red Centre from $685.

 

• GREYHOUND BUSES run tours through the outback, such as the three-day Kakadu Tour from $495 per adult.

 

• TRANSWA bus services weave through WA’s south, running from Perth to Kalgoorlie, Albany to Mount Magnet. WA pensioners can also get a free return trip on this service once a year – and it doesn’t get much cheaper than that!

Where to stay to save cash

Pubs

Be fed, watered and sheltered at one stop with an affordable outback pub stay.

 

• WILLIAM CREEK HOTEL in SA sits in the biggest cattle station in Australia and is the halfway point on the Oodnadatta Track, while Lake Eyre can be seen just up the road. It provides classic pub fare and has hotel rooms from $110 per room per night, and air-conditioned cabins from $65 per night.

 

• THE FAMILY HOTEL in Tibooburra in outback NSW’s Corner Country is an unusual hub of Australian art history. It dates back to 1882 but it was during the 1960s that it really started to find fame, when it became a base for many travelling artists as they explored the outback for inspiration. As a result, several famous Australian artists such as Clifton Pugh, Eric Minchin and Russell Drysdale began painting the interior walls of the hotel and more artists have since followed the trend, turning the hotel into a living art gallery. Travellers can still drink, eat and stay there, with pub rooms from $60 per night, or motel rooms (located across the road) from $90 per night.

 

• THE PALACE HOTEL in Kalgoorlie was built in 1897 to flaunt the town’s sudden wealth gained from the local goldmines. Considered the most luxurious hotel in the state outside of Perth, it was also the first outback hotel to have electric lighting – thanks to its own generator – and fresh water piped to the bathrooms. Today the historic two-storey hotel runs several bars and eateries, and various accommodation options starting from $70 per night.

• THE BARK HUT INN is situated on the Arnhem Highway, halfway between Darwin and Kakadu National Park. It was built by hand by the former owner during the 1960s using ironwood and scrap materials, with the help of the local Aboriginal people. Today it offers a bar and restaurant, fuel, a souvenir shop, as well as cabins and motel rooms from $65 per night.

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Camping

If you can handle the heat, get under the outback stars: there are plenty of picturesque but affordable campgrounds throughout Australia’s heartland.

 

• ARKAROOLA WILDERNESS SANCTUARY in South Australia’s Flinders Ranges features granite peaks, waterholes and an abundance of native wildlife such as the endangered yellow-footed rock wallaby. There are 50 powered sites at the sanctuary’s caravan park from $25 per couple per night, and more than 200 unpowered sites across 300 hectares of bush by Wywhyanna Creek, from $18 per night per couple. Guests can also access Arkaroola’s restaurant and bar, shop and barbecue facilities.

 

• ADELS GROVE in Queensland’s Gulf Savannah is adjacent to Lawn Hill National Park, 200km south-west of Burketown. There are two campgrounds: The Grove, down by a river, and the Main Campground. Both are equipped with modern amenities, water and fireplaces, while the Main Campground also has barbecue plates but no power. Campsites cost from $16 per night for adults, $8 for children, and there are also seven pre-erected tents from $80 per night per couple. Visitors can also make use of the on-site bar and restaurant.

 

• GUNLOM CAMPGROUND within Kakadu National Park has powered and unpowered sites and is equipped with flushing toilets, showers and barbecue facilities. Most impressive, though, is the nearby Gunlom plunge pool, which has spectacular views over the southern region of Kakadu National Park. To camp it costs $10 per person per night, plus a $25 per person entry fee into Kakadu National Park, which is good for 14 days. During the wet season (December-April) access is restricted, so check the latest road reports from Bowali Visitors Centre.

 

• LAKE CROSBIE CAMPGROUND overlooks the largest of Victoria’s unique Pink Lakes (which are literally pink due to algae) in Murray Sunset National Park. The campground is basic but has toilets, picnic tables, fireplaces and water. Best of all, visitors can enjoy all of this without putting a dent in the budget – it’s free.

 

• FOUR MILE CAMPING RESERVE just outside the township of Brewarrina in central north NSW sits on the Barwon River – especially popular for fishing and said to hold the secrets of the Rainbow Serpent. The reserve is equipped with an all-weather access road, toilets, cold showers, barbecue facilities, a jetty and boat ramp. What’s even better for the bank balance, there is no camping fee: the local council just asks that campers take care of the area and clean up.

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Where to eat, sleep and visit on Grand Pacific Drive, and beyond

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    The ultimate road trip begins and ends on NSW’s stunning Grand Pacific Drive.

    Whales, charming villages, fine wine and stunning natural vistas: there’s a lot to love about a road trip along the Grand Pacific Drive in New South Wales. Winding from the Royal National Park through Wollongong, Shellharbour, Kiama and Shoalhaven before heading inland to the Southern Highlands, this scenic drive makes for an unforgettable road trip.

    But like all great road trips, it’s not just about the drive but the stops made along the way. From incredible farm-to-plate (and grape-to-glass) dining options to unbeatable natural vistas and quaint towns with beautiful accommodation, there’s plenty to explore en route.

    Shellharbour Marina
    Spend time in Shellharbour Marina.

    Where to eat

    What is a road trip without incredible food? Whether you’re after fresh seafood, slow-cooked paddock-to-plate feasts or delicious wines, you’ll find something around every bend along Grand Pacific Drive.

    Restaurant Santino is a local Wollongong secret we can’t keep quiet any longer. With a fresh take on Italian cuisine, servings are hearty and flavours are comforting. The chitarra with blue swimmer crab, garlic, chilli, parsley and crustacean oil is a crowd favourite.

    Keep it local in Shellharbour with a menu all about fresh local produce at Relish on Addison. From South Coast oysters and blue swimmer crab linguine to crispy pork belly, surf and turf takes on an elevated meaning here.

    Kiama’s neighbourhood wine and cocktail bar, Little Betty’s, is just as good for a tasty share plate as it is for creative cocktails. The signature Grilled Octopus with burnt honey, garlic confit and sautéed Asian greens is worth a trip on its own.

    Only the best will do in Shoalhaven, where multi-award-winning Bangalay Dining uses native Australian ingredients to bring its dishes to life. Start with the Smoked trout croquette before moving on to the sautéed potato gnocchi. Don’t forget the white chocolate mousse for dessert.

    Meanwhile, the Southern Highlands are full of culinary highlights. From dining on incredibly fresh, local fare (we’re talking ingredients plucked from the team’s on-site kitchen garden or sourced through local producers) at Eschalot Restaurant in Berrima to creating gin blends at Millsheds Distillery.

    bangalay dining shoalhaven
    Taste native flavours at Bangalay Dining.

    Exploring nature

    Scenery is everything when hitting the road, and Grand Pacific Drive serves it up in spades. Drivers don’t even have to leave the car to enjoy the iconic ocean views from Seacliff Bridge (but several lookouts make it easy to stop).

    Seaside Kiama boasts stunning beaches and famous blowholes. But travellers can also swap ocean for rainforest when taking the Minnamurra Rainforest walk, culminating in a picturesque waterfall. Or soar overhead at Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures.

    The scenic coastal drive along Sea Cliff Bridge, Clifton.
    Cruise along the stunning Grand Pacific Drive.

    Between May and November, 30,000 whales make their way passed the South Coast between May and November. Spot them from the coastal shores or join a whale-watching cruise from Shellharbour Marina or Jervis Bay. Dive in with Woebegone Freedive.

    Shellharbour’s Killalea Regional Park is home to a traditional bush tucker and medicine walk with Aboriginal tour group, Gumaraa. Learn Indigenous healing practices and gain a deeper appreciation for the rich heritage and wisdom of the land’s Traditional Owners.

    Wollongong is the perfect place for hikers, with the 6.5-kilometre Wodi Wodi track serving up views, settler history and a variety of landscapes in one loop. If you prefer, skip the walk and pull up at Bald Hill Lookout for expansive views south towards Wollongong (and a hang-glider or two).

    For something truly unique, join the Highland Cow experience at The Swallow’s Nest in the Southern Highlands. In a brand-new offering, get a taste of farm life and help groom and feed these gorgeous creatures.

    kiama coast walk people with dog
    Wander the Kiama Coast Walk.

    Unique experiences

    No need to choose between an adrenaline rush or a culture fix, Grand Pacific Drive serves up both.

    Soar into aviation history at Shellharbour’s HARS Aviation Museum.  Tour the museum, then join a guided walk onto the wing of the record-breaking Qantas Boeing 747 and see the significant historic aircraft up close.

    If ever there was a place to skydive, it’s in Wollongong. Dive from 15,000 feet (tandem, of course) with Sky Dive Wollongong and see the coastal beauty of this region from above.

    Shoalhaven’s Bundanon Art Museum has to be one of the most unique offerings in the country. The legacy of artist Arthur Boyd and more than just a gallery, find eco-accommodation, fine dining, award-winning architecture and community here.

    Kiama’s Crooked River Estate is about more than just delicious wine.  Grab a picnic blanket and enjoy casual food and drinks with live music at Kick Back Fridays, every week.

    Between June and August, the Southern Highlands’ Robertson attracts novice truffle hunters. Join the hunt at family-owned and operated Robertson Truffles (alternatively, you can order truffle treats online, if your sense of adventure isn’t up for it).

    Freshly dug truffles at Terra Preta Truffles, Braidwood.
    Discover hidden gems beneath the soil in the Southern Highlands. (Image: Destination NSW)

    Where to stay

    Road trips are the ultimate promotion for slow travel, encouraging visitors to take their time, enjoy the journey and stop along the way to really immerse themselves in local towns.

    Find history and elegance at Berida Hotel in the Southern Highlands. Intimately set amongst gardens, but still close to the main street of Bowral, this 1920s private residence turned boutique hotel is the perfect stay.

    Stay in one of Barranca’s private villas with views of rolling farmland overlooking the dramatic escarpment at Kangaroo Valley or be surrounded by native bushland (a short walk from the beach) in Jervis Bay.

    Speaking of beachside escapes, Headlands Hotel Austinmer Beach delivers unrivalled access to Wollongong’s beaches. These serviced apartments enjoy coastal views from spacious balconies.

    For something completely different again, check in at Cicada Luxury Camping. Stay in safari-style or large bell tents, each with a private fire pit and top-notch kitchen facilities. Outside, enjoy spectacular countryside views.

    Cicada Luxury Camping
    Unwind at Cicada Luxury Camping. (Image: DNSW)

    Discover more and plan your ultimate road trip along the Grand Pacific Drive and beyond at grandpacificdrive.com.au/grand.

    How To Do The Outback On A Budget