The Motorcycle Diaries: Part 1

hero media
Zoe Naylor has taken her first tottering steps in a lifelong love affair with a motorcycle. So if you’ve been tempted by the thrill of the ride and the wind in your hair, hop on and hold tight.

A year ago, if you’d told me that today I’d be riding my very own Ducati, I wouldn’t have believed you. I grew up peppered with horror stories about terrible accidents that scared me off ever entertaining the idea seriously. But later in life and living in Bondi, my partner at the time decided he wanted a scooter to make travel to and from work simpler. So we decided, as a romantic couple thing, to get our licences together.

 

Suddenly my mind was opened up to the potential for new and exciting travel possibilities. I fantasised about becoming the next Mr and Mrs Smith, riding our matching BMWs through the Adelaide Hills to the Barossa, discovering Tasmania with the wind flying through our hair, or cruising the Great Ocean Road on a Harley.

 

We completed our learners together, then bought a Vespa 250 GTSie. My partner rode to work every day but I was too scared by the traffic and ended up not riding the scooter at all. My licence lay dormant for the best part of a year.

 

Then it came time for P-plates. I was no longer seeing the same guy and had three months to go before my Ls expired. It seemed a waste to let the whole thing slide, so I decided to complete the post-learner course and get some private tuition to help build confidence. It was the best thing I ever did. Using the school’s Honda 250 I sat my Ps – one of the most nerve-racking experiences I’ve endured in a long time – and passed.

 

Then I finally took the scooter out. But, since I’d now had a taste of riding a manual, this scooter nonsense just wasn’t going to cut it. I found myself craving the feeling of a more powerful bike hugging the road. It was time for an upgrade.

 

As a woman with few motorcycling friends, I had no idea where to start when it came to choosing a bike. I was steered towards a copy of the Australian Road Rider Bike Buyers Guide, which lists every bike available in the marketplace. I figured if I at least narrowed down the bikes I liked the look of, even if I had no idea about the specs, it would be a step in the right direction.

 

During these early stages I looked at Harleys, Triumphs and Ducatis. I loved the retro look of the Harleys, but figured if I was going to embark on a lifelong motorcycle journey, perhaps that was a bike I could grow into after I’d tried some sportier styles.

 

Then I went to Fraser Motorcycles in Concord. And this is where my life changed. Not since Cosmopolitan Shoes in Double Bay have I fallen in love with a store so deeply. Ladies, I never knew shopping in a motorcycle store could be so much fun! They had the full range of Harleys and Ducatis, which made early comparisons that much easier. Once I settled on Ducati, the next issue was which one? Obviously there was no point putting me straight on an 1198, even though I’m in love with that bike, so taking all the elements of style, safety, power and feel into account, I felt drawn to the pearl Monster 696 as the bike for me.

 

I’m no Casey Stoner (yet). I’m a safe, cautious Ducati rider, if there is such a thing.

 

When the time came to collect my new bike (yeeaahhhhh), I still felt a little nervous about facing Parramatta Rd in peak hour but the team at Frasers were more than happy to deliver it to my home. I’ve never been more excited. It was the best present I ever gave to myself and I now fully appreciate why victims of midlife crises often splash out on a bike.

 

I began with slow, steady rides around Centennial Park, which led to rides around Queens Park, then to Bondi and the city until finally I rode out to Oran Park Raceway and was able to let her rip. It was scary, exhilarating and everything in between; just what I needed to build my courage in traffic and advance to the next stage of my riding. You know you’re alive when you’re burning down the M5 on a Ducati with a semitrailer sitting right next to you. I don’t think I felt the fear, nor the adrenalin, subside the entire way there.

 

Now I’m at the stage where I honestly feel like I’m having a love affair . . . with my motorcycle. I often go down to the garage just to look at it (sad, I know) and every time I start it up and hear that whirrrr of the Ducati engine I can’t wipe the smile off my face.

 

As I write this, I’m in Hervey Bay shooting a film called The Reef and I miss my bike so much that I’m having it trucked up here. So if you’re thinking about getting a motorcycle, what are you waiting for? It has transformed my experience of being on the road; it’s cheap to run, easier to park and so much fun.

 

I finally understand the immense feeling of freedom a motorcycle gives you. I’m no Casey Stoner (yet). I’m a safe, cautious Ducati rider, if there is such a thing. I’m not sure if long trips and spending hours on the bike are my thing, but I definitely look forward to discovering parts of Australia on a motorcycle. Take the plunge, people, and I look forward to seeing you on the road very soon.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

Want to see more stories from Australian Traveller in your Google search results?

  1. Click here to set Australian Traveller as a preferred source.
  2. Tick the box next to "Australian Traveller". That's it.

8 insider experiences to discover the offbeat in Newcastle

    Carla Grossetti Carla Grossetti
    hero media
    Discover vibrant culture and creativity, gorgeous nature spots and more in lively Newcastle.

    Newcastle/Muloobinba has a lot going for it beyond its big skies and beautiful beaches. The city’s creative types are now heading downtown, taking over and transforming warehouses and terraces to offer a more alternative vibe. From its nightlife to secret swimming spots, art to architecture, here’s our insider’s guide to Newcastle in New South Wales.

    1. Learn to sail on Newcastle Harbour

    The harbour has always shaped Newcastle, so it seems like the most obvious place to start your weekend. Newcastle Cruising Yacht Club offers a range of programs that provide instruction for both novice and experienced sailors. This is an inspired classroom that sets off past the Honeysuckle Foreshore up the Hunter River, with views towards a seemingly infinite vista of blue stretching to the horizon. It’s the perfect way to savour your time by the sea. Other water activities include surfing, swimming in one of the secret ocean baths or whale-watching with CoastXP.

    Aerial view of Newcastle Harbour.
    Join Newcastle Cruising Yacht Club’s programs. (Image: City of Newcastle)

    2. Underground jazz scene

    Follow the lively sound of the saxophone bubbling up to find The Underground. The popular basement-level bar, with its dim lighting and speakeasy aesthetic, schedules live jazz performances every Tuesday and Thursday. Newcastle is known around the country for supporting live music and this late-night New York-style jazz bar is, like the city itself, both approachable and sophisticated. For fans of live music, Queen’s Wharf Hotel, King Street Newcastle, Mad Poet and The Lucky Hotel are all popular pubs for their roster of live music.

     

    View this post on Instagram

     

    A post shared by Newcastle Live (@newcastlelive)

    3. The city as a canvas   

    The streets of Newcastle present like an outdoor art gallery, adding beauty to the everyday with large-scale works by artists such as Fintan Magee, Inari Meyers, Tom Henderson and Sophia Flegg. Hire a Flash E-bike and pedal around the streets to find treasures such as Bronte Naylor’s Mirror Ocean in Civic Square or Sky & Ocean at South Newcastle Beach Skate Park. You can also join Newy Tour Co.’s Discover Newcastle tour to explore city highlights, architectural gems and street art with an expert guide.

    Friends take in Newcastle Street Art.
    Admire stunning works of art displayed all around you. (Image: Destination NSW)

    4. An artist’s view of Newcastle

    There’s a real sense of optimism around Newcastle, stemming from its many grassroots art galleries and organisations. The city is home to an eclectic array of artists who gravitate toward different mediums; see their works on show at independent galleries such as The Lock-Up, which operated as a police station from 1861 until 1982, and Lighthouse Arts Newcastle in the light-filled cottages on Nobbys Head/Whibayganba. Stop by The Creator Incubator to see the Little and Big gallery spaces. Newcastle Art Gallery will soon reopen after a recent expansion, so keep an eye out.

    5. Newcastle after dark

    The small bars confetti’d around Newcastle are a sign of the times. Visitors to the compact city will find a concentration of bars within a small radius, all of which are within easy walking distance or accessible via the light rail. The after-dark experience, which includes theatre and live music, is designed for visitors who are in search of the offbeat and want to celebrate the city’s creativity.  Whether you’re visiting for business or pleasure, the bars that dot most neighbourhoods will tempt you with everything from happy hour to their alt attitude. 

    A bartender expertly crafting a drink, with a stunning library of spirits in the background.
    Enjoy a night out at a lively bar. (Image: City of Newcastle)

    6. Indulge in great gastronomy

    Newcastle’s proximity to the Hunter Valley has helped establish it as a sophisticated getaway for gourmands with a passion for provenance. Dining options in the city are diverse, with everything from casual cafes to cantina-style Mexican eateries such as Antojitos, through to fine diners such as Flotilla and Jana Restaurant & Bar at QT Newcastle. Visit during Newcastle Food Month to get a snapshot of the local culinary scene – you can take note of the many world-class restaurants and cafes that warrant a return visit. Humbug, Peregrin and Bistro Penny should also be on your radar.

    The dining area at Flotilla in Newcastle NSW.
    Savour a world-class dining experience at Flotilla. (Image: Flotilla)

    7. Crystalbrook Kingsley

    Crystalbrook Kingsley is another great example of Newcastle’s new wow factor.  Staying at the hotel – in the heart of the cultural centre – makes exploring a breeze, with vintage bikes for guests who want to check out the city streets on two wheels. The design-savvy Crystalbrook Collection reimagined the Roundhouse building while adhering to its ethos of sustainable luxury. The hotel is also a magnet for foodies, with the rooftop Roundhouse restaurant and cocktail bar, Romberg’s, two of the best spots in the city for wining and dining.

    The Roundhouse by Crystalbrook Collection.
    Step into the reworked Roundhouse by Crystalbrook. (Image: Crystalbrook Kingsley)

    8. Newcastle’s creative side on show

    Save the date for New Annual, a festival of art, music and ideas from 26 September – 5 October. The program is jam-packed with 10 days of art, culture and creativity. This year’s festival will celebrate the power art has to connect people. Expect to see a diverse program including music, theatre, workshops, and performances in iconic Newcastle locations. Visitors will find a concentration of events within a small radius, all of which are within easy walking distance or accessible via the light rail.

    Dancers performing gracefully, accompanied by a live orchestra.
    Celebrate migration, community and belonging at New Annual.

    Plan your next trip to offbeat Newcastle.