Warts and all: Memoirs of an Australian Traveller

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Australian Traveller started on a flight to Broome in 2004. Surprising then, that from the age of 14, all I wanted to do was get the hell out of Australia.

As far as I was concerned, life started once I crossed the Australian border and started exploring ‘the world’.

I was a fresh-faced, long-haired 18-year-old backpacker when I first travelled through Europe and the US. My round-the-world ticket cost $1800 and flew me via Colombo, Sri Lanka, on an Air Lanka jet where the rivets popped every time we took off and landed. But no matter.

I lived by the words of a weighty Let’s Go Europe guide that weighed a ton. It led me to the most flea-bitten, cheap accommodation I could afford. I survived a mate almost dying in Zermatt, a crazy Viennese slum lord, homeboys and bed bugs in NYC and several memory-impairing visits to Amsterdam. I survived my youthful wanderlust, in other words. Just.

I returned from my gap year not knowing that’s what I had done. Back then you merely ducked uni for a year and went travelling. Most people thought it strange and exotic and said things like, “Wow, you’re adventurous, aren’t you?" I just thought it was a better use of my time than studying.

I took a job in publishing with the hope of using it to fund my travel. It worked.

The boss deported me to Singapore for 18 months, then London for two and a half years. I hated Singapore and loved London.

The summer holidays in Italy were glorious – long days in Florence, the Tuscan coast, Rome and even a week-long sojourn in Venice. It was everything I had always wanted. I didn’t want to leave.

Unfortunately, I returned to Australia earlier than I had hoped to (thanks, boss), this time with a de-facto English girlfriend in tow.

To kick off the Australian leg of our relationship, I booked us a holiday in Broome. It was May 2004.

Flying over Roebuck Bay, I looked down and for the first time, saw the amazing aquamarine water lapping up against the pindan soil of Outback Australia. Why had I never been here?

I was embarrassed. I had seen the world and not seen my own country. Worse – I had never wanted to see my own country.

As the Virgin Blue flight bounced onto the tarmac, my brain synapses seemed to be aligning in one heightened moment. An idea lit up my brain, like a child on red cordial: Australian Traveller. A magazine for those who’ve travelled the world but not their own backyard. People like me. I was electrified by the idea.

I pitched the idea to my flatmate Nigel the night we returned from Broome. He asked one question: “is the web address available?"

And so, I became a website owner.

We spent the next six months having a few hundred beers and trying to figure out why people smarter than us had not yet sold their houses to fund the launch of a domestic travel magazine. I could tell you why now. It’s a lot of effort.

In what could be considered a miracle, we launched the magazine on 25 May 2005. We were mates, and now business partners.

On that day the Aussie dollar was buying 76 US cents, John Howard was two years away from Kevin ’07, Australia had held the Ashes for 16 consecutive years and Gwen Stefani’s Hollaback Girl was on top of the charts. Social media was studying journalism at a uni with a decent student bar.

The launch was crazy – we never expected to get death threats. Someone hated us for publishing ‘the 10 ugliest towns in the country’, so much so that they emailed, promising to kill us if they lost a single booking! I was touched they thought we were so powerful.

Readers loved the magazine. Australia as a destination was resting on its post-Olympic and Rugby World Cup bottom whilst Kiwi luxury lodges were the hot topic in antipodean travel.

We were also lucky to have some powerful friends, with former Deputy Prime Minister Tim Fischer being our founding columnist. True to his great passion, almost every destination featured by Tim in two years of columns included a train somewhere.

His role as Chairman of Tourism Australia at the time helped. Having a beer after we published issue #4, Tim was his usual honest self. “Congratulations boys, that’s three more issues than anyone ever expected."

2006 was a breakthrough year. Our first annual 100 – ‘100 Things To Do Before You Die’ is still our best-selling issue of all time.

We followed that up with our first Outback issue, another cracker sale – and the first time I had returned to the countryside that had inspired me into this crazy venture. Shooting the cover on the Mundi Mundi plains, I felt I was living under ‘the big sky’ for the first time.

That year, a lot of relationships started and ended. The English girlfriend decided Australia was a great place to visit but ‘old Blighty’ was probably a better place to live. I didn’t agree but was in love with other things soon enough.

I had never met Aboriginal people who only spoke their native language until I went to Garma. At Cape Arnhem, I was blown away and it dawned on me that most people’s mysticism is the same.

My new girlfriend didn’t like that I was out of contact for the whole 10 days, however. We moved in together when I got back.

For me, qualia started a new era in Australian travel, the first world-class luxury lodge to take it to the Kiwis… And me. I took my now live-in girlfriend there eight weeks after the opening.

That stay wasn’t all smooth sailing. The activities guys had dropped us off for a romantic picnic on our own beach but forgot to bring the picnic, the umbrella or water… let alone any champagne. The staff arrived just when we started to think panic would be the only solution.

My live-in girlfriend cried when we left qualia. (“I’ll never ever get to stay at a place like this again.") We went back for five nights on our honeymoon. She didn’t cry when we left that time – we were headed for Longitude 131.

True to my reformed travelling self, our entire honeymoon was spent in Australia.

Since that moment, Luxury Lodges of Australia have become all the rage. I took my wife to Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa the day after our first son was officially conceived via IVF. She declared it the greatest bed she has ever slept on. “Even better than qualia."

Now when I meet people and they ask, “How long have you been at Australian Traveller?" I only ever say, ‘from the beginning’.

They immediately want to know my favourite place. The answer is always the same. “Depends."

It depends on what you like, what you want and how you like to travel – for there is only one certainty, as far as I can see. That around every corner I’ll be surprised and delighted by yet another piece of this amazing country.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Quentin Long
Quentin Long is the Co-Founder and Managing Director of Australian Traveller Media. Quentin is a sought-after travel media commentator. He is Australia’s most trusted source for travel news and insights, having held weekly radio segments across the country since 2006, and regularly appearing on Channel 9’s Today and A Current Affair programs from 2010. Don't ask him his favourite travel experience as that's like asking him to choose a favourite child. However he does say that Garma Festival is the one travel experience that changed him the most.
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The ultimate spring and summer guide to Melbourne

There’s nothing quite like Melbourne in the warmer months. Come spring, the city emerges from its cold-weather cocoon and brims with marquee events, vibrant seasonal menus, brilliant blooms and a fresh energy.

The centre of the city is where most of the magic happens. It’s a labyrinth of art-lined alleys and meandering laneways, filled with restaurants, cafes, rooftop bars, galleries, live music joints, theatres, boutiques, high-end hotels like The Westin Melbourne and much, much more. In spring and summer, especially, locals and travellers alike come to enjoy the balmy weather and celebratory spirit.

If you’re planning to be one of them, here are the best places for eating, drinking, exploring and staying.

Where to stay

The Westin Melbourne

couple inside their room at the westin melbourne
View the city from above in your suite.

Situated in the heart of the city on bustling Collins Street, The Westin Melbourne is a supremely convenient base. With the hotel as a base, explore the entire CBD – including Federation Square and Melbourne’s shopping, dining, theatre and sporting precincts – on foot.

Despite its central location, the hotel is something of an oasis. It has a serene ambience and elegantly understated design that provides respite at the end of a busy day. Think timeless interiors with warm timbers and neutral tones, and spacious rooms with signature Heavenly® beds and sumptuous linens. You’ll also indulge in impeccable service and amenities like fitness and wellness centres and an indoor pool. Selected rooms have sweeping city views.

Where to eat and drink

1. Allegro

Allegro is refined yet welcoming, pairing seasonal Australian produce and international flavours, finished with finesse. The à la carte, set and pre-theatre menus change seasonally. In spring and summer, expect a lively and creative line-up of dishes. You can also partake in a playful and limited-edition High Cheese offering that’s well worth trying if you’re a lover of blues and bries.

The restaurant happens to be located right inside The Westin Melbourne. It’s an ideal spot if you’re staying at the hotel and need somewhere to dine or drink before hitting the town.

2. Lobby Lounge

the westin melbourne lobby lounge
Step into the Lobby Lounge.

Whether you’re after a quick bite before exploring the city, a leisurely lunch or dinner, or a post-theatre nightcap, head to The Westin Melbourne’s elegant Lobby Lounge.

The menu features everything from moreish snacks, small bites and share plates to hearty all-day meals and desserts. The accompanying drinks list is a treasure trove of varietals, with a notable leaning towards Victorian drops and an excellent selection of spirits.

For a truly indulgent experience, book yourself in for the signature high tea. You’ll savour three tiers of beautifully crafted sweet and savoury treats, specialty tea and coffee, and the option for a sneaky glass of bubbly.

3. Other places to dine

diners at supernormal melbourne
There’s no shortage of tasty dining options, in and nearby The Westin Melbourne. (Credit: Visit Vic)

Dotted around the city are some of Melbourne’s most acclaimed dining destinations. Supernormal is a local institution. Feast on inventive Pan-Asian dishes made with fresh ingredients, paired with a Japanese whisky or sake from the extensive drinks list. At Gimlet, the surroundings are utterly romantic, the service impeccable and the food outstanding. Expect sustainably sourced meats, seafood and produce finished with European flavours and technique.

Apollo Inn – the sister venue to Gimlet and Supernormal – does punchy snacks, share plates and incredible drinks. Try the signature Picon Biere, a refined take on a shandy.

Dukes Coffee Roasters at Ross House is a great place to start your day, serving up organic and sustainable brews made with precision.

While you’re in the city, take a wander down Hosier and AC/DC Lanes. Beyond the famed street art along both, you’ll find a cluster of must-try eateries and bars, including MoVida, Pastuso, Bar Bambi and Tres a Cinco.

Things to do

1. Take a run through Melbourne’s green spaces

a bridge across yarra river
Run or walk along the Yarra River. (Credit: Visit Vic)

Melbourne’s outdoors look their very best in spring and summer. The parks and gardens come alive with colourful blooms, the trees in and around the CBD regain their verdant canopy, and the Yarra River sparkles in the sun.

A run or walk in nearby green spaces, like Carlton Gardens, Fitzroy Gardens and the Royal Botanic Gardens, lets you soak up the scenery. The Westin Melbourne also provides curated running routes through surrounding gardens and along the Yarra. Workout gear and Bala weights can be borrowed from the hotel if you forget to pack your own.

2. Browse the boutique galleries

two women looking at an exhibition in the national gallery of victoria
See the collections of NGV. (Credit: Visit Vic)

Independent art galleries are practically synonymous with Melbourne, and many of them are conveniently situated in the city centre. You can easily hop between Flinders Lane Gallery, Arc One Gallery, Outre Gallery, Caves Gallery, Gallery Funaki and D’Lan Contemporary, allowing you to experience the city’s vibrant art scene in a single day.

If you’ve got an afternoon to spare, venture over the Yarra to the National Gallery of Victoria. The iconic and historic institution houses both a vast permanent collection and an exciting roster of rotating exhibitions.

3. Catch some live music

live music at the cherry bar in melbourne
Dive into Melbourne’s live music scene. (Credit: Visit Vic)

Melbourne’s live music scene reignites when spring hits. In and around the CBD are several beloved live music venues that showcase everything from jazz to rock to electronic.

Visit intimate venues like Bird’s Basement, Wax Music Lounge and Cherry Bar, or larger ones, such as The Toff, Forum and Palais Theatre, for major acts. Plenty of bars, restaurants and clubs host regular gigs, too, including The Westin Melbourne’s Lobby Lounge. Every Saturday from 12-3pm, enjoy live strings alongside your lunch or afternoon tea.

4. Soak up the atmosphere at the MCG

three punters in big hats at the melbourne cricket ground
Book tickets for a big sports bash. (Credit: Visit Vic)

The Melbourne Cricket Ground welcomes its namesake sport in the warmer months. Watch One-Day Internationals, T20 Internationals, Big Bash League and Sheffield Shield matches throughout the season, or settle in for the multi-day Boxing Day Test.

Spring and summer are also when the MCG holds big events and concerts. Surrounded by the roar and energy of the venue’s legendary crowds, there are few places better than this to see a live gig.

5. Experience the magic of the Regent Theatre

the inside steps of melbourne's regent theatre
Soak in Regent Theatre’s architecture. (Credit: Visit Vic)

Standing proud for nearly 100 years, the Regent Theatre is a stunning venue: its grand exterior opens to a gorgeously ornate interior decked out with chandeliers, plush drapes and gilded details.

Stopping by to take in its architecture is memorable enough. But if you’ve got the time, book a ticket to one of the spectacular shows that take place inside. The venue hosts a diverse line-up of live music, musicals, opera, dance, theatre and comedy. In spring and summer, the program is at its most energetic, with events to suit all tastes.

Whatever draws you to Melbourne, The Westin Melbourne is at the centre of it all. Start preparing for an adventure at marriott.com.

Warts and all: Memoirs of an Australian Traveller - Australian Traveller