A third-generation butcher in Tasmania shares his passion for the trade

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For a snapshot in time, we asked eight people around the country to reflect on Australia Now. Here, Marcus Boks, master butcher of Boks Bacon in Tasmania, shares his thoughts on what the global pandemic has taught him.

Keep reading our Australia Now series here.

 

I live in a little town called Margate, which is over the mountains from the Huon Valley in Tasmania. It’s about 15 minutes south of Hobart. My family are from the Huon Valley, but we have just moved from the Huon to Margate.

Why it’s great to live and work in Tasmania

I’ve lived in Tasmania for 50 years and I’m a third-generation butcher. I have my eldest son working with us now so the fourth generation is entering the business. It’s a family tradition that dates back to my grandfather in the Netherlands.

 

My Australian family grew up in the Huon valley and with everything that’s been happening in the world, we feel lucky to be here. It feels like a safe haven. There are so many tracks for bushwalking and I love that freedom of setting off into the landscape. The scenery is breathtaking. One of my favourite landmarks is Sleeping Beauty, a mountain that resembles a giant female sphinx lying under a rumpled blanket.

 

The Huon is a vibrant place to live. I can travel two minutes down the road and be at a secluded beach. I can be fishing or picking oysters the size of my hand off the rocks. We’ve had a lot of mainland people moving down here recently for a sea change.

 

One of my favourite places to visit is Hastings Caves. It is a massive magical dolomite cave with stalactites and stalagmites and a thermal pool. Not too far is the Airwalk down in the Tahune Forest, which is a big footbridge system that has been built through the trees.

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What the global pandemic has taught him

The beautiful scenery and our ability to get back to nature has definitely helped us weather the extraordinary circumstances of the past few years. And in terms of selling Boks Bacon, business has never been better. It’s been a challenge to keep up with the demands. We had to lift production, but I have plenty of good workers, so that wasn’t a problem. COVID nudged a lot of people to seek pleasure in simple things, like artisan produce. Our bacon has no added water, which means more flavour. Boks Bacon is made following an old Dutch recipe that was brought to Tassie in the 1950s. It has developed even more of a cult following during COVID.

Boks Bacon being dry-cured
The first thing to note about Boks Bacon is that it dry-cured and not injected with brine, says master butcher Marcus Boks. (Image: Samuel Shelley)

As a community, we learned a lot during COVID. Tasmania has, in the past, been a bit divided: with Hobart in the south, Launceston in the north, you were either north or south. There was a real divide there. Now that COVID has happened and we closed borders it made Taswegians feel like we were all living in the best spot. It made us get together a bit more and become more of a unified state rather than a state split into two different halves. The only place we could go was within our own state. It has given Tasmanian people a very good reminder about what we have here.

The growth in popularity of food from Tasmania

In the last 10 years or so, people around the world have started to recognise how good the food is coming out of Tasmania. Interstate people have known about just how good the food and wine is here for a lot longer than the Tasmanians. COVID has shifted the focus to products such as ours. People have started looking for local product. They want to support us. A lot of the big producers don’t use Australian pork. The pork we use is all Australian; it’s free-range pork from ethical and sustainable farms in Tasmania and Victoria. Our bacon is 100 per cent Australian pork.

 

When I offer my bacon to someone who hasn’t had it before, the first thing I tell them is it is dry-cured, so not injected with brine. Some of the mass-produced bacon is injected with 25 per cent to 50 per cent brine, which means you are paying for a lot of water. It’s also already cooked so you lose all the flavour when it hits the pan. Our bacon is cold-smoked. But we developed a no-nitrite product in the past year and we want to eventually move over to doing all nitrite-free. People have started looking at what they are consuming.

Boks Bacon is cold-smoked
Boks Bacon is cold-smoked in a wood-fired smoker using Tasmanian Oak.

I am so proud of the fact our bacon is still made using this old-fashioned recipe. It’s a product that has withstood the test of time. My grandfather came out from Holland with his family in 1951. He had spent a few years in a POW camp and after that he decided he was going to ship the family out and start anew. He came to Australia and he brought that recipe with him. He learned his trade in about 1930 and learned the recipe from an old butcher who learned the craft in the late 1800s. The recipe has gone from my grandfather Johannes Sr to my father Johannes Jr to me and now onto my son Justin.

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Where to eat, sleep and visit on Grand Pacific Drive, and beyond

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    The ultimate road trip begins and ends on NSW’s stunning Grand Pacific Drive.

    Whales, charming villages, fine wine and stunning natural vistas: there’s a lot to love about a road trip along the Grand Pacific Drive in New South Wales. Winding from the Royal National Park through Wollongong, Shellharbour, Kiama and Shoalhaven before heading inland to the Southern Highlands, this scenic drive makes for an unforgettable road trip.

    But like all great road trips, it’s not just about the drive but the stops made along the way. From incredible farm-to-plate (and grape-to-glass) dining options to unbeatable natural vistas and quaint towns with beautiful accommodation, there’s plenty to explore en route.

    Shellharbour Marina
    Spend time in Shellharbour Marina.

    Where to eat

    What is a road trip without incredible food? Whether you’re after fresh seafood, slow-cooked paddock-to-plate feasts or delicious wines, you’ll find something around every bend along Grand Pacific Drive.

    Restaurant Santino is a local Wollongong secret we can’t keep quiet any longer. With a fresh take on Italian cuisine, servings are hearty and flavours are comforting. The chitarra with blue swimmer crab, garlic, chilli, parsley and crustacean oil is a crowd favourite.

    Keep it local in Shellharbour with a menu all about fresh local produce at Relish on Addison. From South Coast oysters and blue swimmer crab linguine to crispy pork belly, surf and turf takes on an elevated meaning here.

    Kiama’s neighbourhood wine and cocktail bar, Little Betty’s, is just as good for a tasty share plate as it is for creative cocktails. The signature Grilled Octopus with burnt honey, garlic confit and sautéed Asian greens is worth a trip on its own.

    Only the best will do in Shoalhaven, where multi-award-winning Bangalay Dining uses native Australian ingredients to bring its dishes to life. Start with the Smoked trout croquette before moving on to the sautéed potato gnocchi. Don’t forget the white chocolate mousse for dessert.

    Meanwhile, the Southern Highlands are full of culinary highlights. From dining on incredibly fresh, local fare (we’re talking ingredients plucked from the team’s on-site kitchen garden or sourced through local producers) at Eschalot Restaurant in Berrima to creating gin blends at Millsheds Distillery.

    bangalay dining shoalhaven
    Taste native flavours at Bangalay Dining.

    Exploring nature

    Scenery is everything when hitting the road, and Grand Pacific Drive serves it up in spades. Drivers don’t even have to leave the car to enjoy the iconic ocean views from Seacliff Bridge (but several lookouts make it easy to stop).

    Seaside Kiama boasts stunning beaches and famous blowholes. But travellers can also swap ocean for rainforest when taking the Minnamurra Rainforest walk, culminating in a picturesque waterfall. Or soar overhead at Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures.

    The scenic coastal drive along Sea Cliff Bridge, Clifton.
    Cruise along the stunning Grand Pacific Drive.

    Between May and November, 30,000 whales make their way passed the South Coast between May and November. Spot them from the coastal shores or join a whale-watching cruise from Shellharbour Marina or Jervis Bay. Dive in with Woebegone Freedive.

    Shellharbour’s Killalea Regional Park is home to a traditional bush tucker and medicine walk with Aboriginal tour group, Gumaraa. Learn Indigenous healing practices and gain a deeper appreciation for the rich heritage and wisdom of the land’s Traditional Owners.

    Wollongong is the perfect place for hikers, with the 6.5-kilometre Wodi Wodi track serving up views, settler history and a variety of landscapes in one loop. If you prefer, skip the walk and pull up at Bald Hill Lookout for expansive views south towards Wollongong (and a hang-glider or two).

    For something truly unique, join the Highland Cow experience at The Swallow’s Nest in the Southern Highlands. In a brand-new offering, get a taste of farm life and help groom and feed these gorgeous creatures.

    kiama coast walk people with dog
    Wander the Kiama Coast Walk.

    Unique experiences

    No need to choose between an adrenaline rush or a culture fix, Grand Pacific Drive serves up both.

    Soar into aviation history at Shellharbour’s HARS Aviation Museum.  Tour the museum, then join a guided walk onto the wing of the record-breaking Qantas Boeing 747 and see the significant historic aircraft up close.

    If ever there was a place to skydive, it’s in Wollongong. Dive from 15,000 feet (tandem, of course) with Sky Dive Wollongong and see the coastal beauty of this region from above.

    Shoalhaven’s Bundanon Art Museum has to be one of the most unique offerings in the country. The legacy of artist Arthur Boyd and more than just a gallery, find eco-accommodation, fine dining, award-winning architecture and community here.

    Kiama’s Crooked River Estate is about more than just delicious wine.  Grab a picnic blanket and enjoy casual food and drinks with live music at Kick Back Fridays, every week.

    Between June and August, the Southern Highlands’ Robertson attracts novice truffle hunters. Join the hunt at family-owned and operated Robertson Truffles (alternatively, you can order truffle treats online, if your sense of adventure isn’t up for it).

    Freshly dug truffles at Terra Preta Truffles, Braidwood.
    Discover hidden gems beneath the soil in the Southern Highlands. (Image: Destination NSW)

    Where to stay

    Road trips are the ultimate promotion for slow travel, encouraging visitors to take their time, enjoy the journey and stop along the way to really immerse themselves in local towns.

    Find history and elegance at Berida Hotel in the Southern Highlands. Intimately set amongst gardens, but still close to the main street of Bowral, this 1920s private residence turned boutique hotel is the perfect stay.

    Stay in one of Barranca’s private villas with views of rolling farmland overlooking the dramatic escarpment at Kangaroo Valley or be surrounded by native bushland (a short walk from the beach) in Jervis Bay.

    Speaking of beachside escapes, Headlands Hotel Austinmer Beach delivers unrivalled access to Wollongong’s beaches. These serviced apartments enjoy coastal views from spacious balconies.

    For something completely different again, check in at Cicada Luxury Camping. Stay in safari-style or large bell tents, each with a private fire pit and top-notch kitchen facilities. Outside, enjoy spectacular countryside views.

    Cicada Luxury Camping
    Unwind at Cicada Luxury Camping. (Image: DNSW)

    Discover more and plan your ultimate road trip along the Grand Pacific Drive and beyond at grandpacificdrive.com.au/grand.